Thanks for the kind words @Movation 
Did you top out at 60kmh with the airless AT wheels?
You bottom out even with the AT wheels? :o
I’ve gotten some light (barely noticeable) scrapes already with speed bumps, but fairly minor and I’m always pretty careful around those.
Yeah, they’re manufacture “rated” for bs 40a
But independent ecig forum cell testers tested them to be good at 15-20a continuous.
And I’m running them at 12a max which is way below the limit. (60a/5)
Thats my experience I have a 8S pack in the workshop I have it connected to my workshops solar inverter fot testing easily maxes out the inverter 2500Watts without getting too hot. Bang for buck they are awesome. Yep with airless, yeah they are the NOT the same as pneumatics and I have the scar to prove it Dex is sending me TB110 with my TB40 deck these will live on kracken Its getting a rebuild soon. To make it more stable and shake off the curse.
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Went for a morning ride before work because its sunny! I love it! 30km ride, avg moving speed of 30kmh, top speed of 53kmh!
The roads were slightly wet due to the dew/temperature. A great thing about the cloud wheels profile is that they don’t splash at all! If it was regular wheels, I’d be all muddied up. And the extra wide hangers also help I guess. Barley any dirtiness on the bottom of the board after the entire ride
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Been on any more rides, still holding up well? Did you figure out some nice vesc settings and maybe tried out FOC?
Yes I have.
Been getting some amazing weather this past week and went on quite a few rides! I got around 325km total so far and loving the range I get
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I also attempted the new HFI last week but wasnt able to get it working. I tried sensorless FOC, but it was WORSE than sensorless BLDC because it stuttered pretty often even after it got going ~10kmh which was super sketch. But the brakes were a lot stronger than sensorless BLDC.
I ended up extending my sensor wires and tried sensored FOC. And only one side was working for some strange reason. (Sensored FOC acts like unsensored FOC when the sensor is unplugged, so it acted like that. (The motor would still run, but as if it was sensored foc)
I tried literally EVERYTHING:
- re-soldered the sensore wire extensions
- try all the phase wire combinations (It was correct the 1st time)
- re-detect motors
- re-flash firmware
- downgrade the VESC tool
- downgrade the firmware
- change motors to different sides of the VESC and re-configuring motors
- change back to the same sides
And then it WORKED! :o
The only reason I can think of it originally, I had to “invert” the non-working side via the VESC tool. But after I switched back, the phase wires worked out so I didn’t have to invert any motors. It might be a bug, idk. But I’m happy I got it working
Thoughts on Sensored FOC:
SO much better than unsensored BLDC! The “delay” between the throttle and motors is zero! And that makes it a much smoother ride and feel (unsensored BLDC takes ~200-500ms for the phase detection to kick in even when you’re at speed).
The brakes are also much better! in BLDC they were lacking at low speeds even with the “slow reverse erpm trick” Now, it actually feel like its braking as it should. My meepo board braked better than BLDC which was pretty sad.
Overall I’m happy to have made the jump and this board is even better than before!
My MakerX dual esc is also holding up great with my settings. 60a/-20a batt (total). 40a/-60a motor (each)
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How thick off a riser did you use?
it was 3/4" on the front.
And none on the rear because it was high enough already
Update:
I clocked ~820kms on this board total and I am loving this board!
…Until the battery broke yesterday… 
Yesterday, when I wend to ride, I noticed that the battery meter on my remote started at 75%. I thought maybe my charger came unplugged half way or something. I did a short ride, and plugged it in. The charger stopped charging and had the green light too quickly compared to normal. I decided open it up and measure the battery terminals. I got 46.1v D= (Expected 50.4v)
I tried another 12s charger in case my charger was broken, but got the same green light at 46.1v
I measured the BMS JST connector leads and this was my results 
I have logged around 820kms on this battery and only ~23 cycles (of which ~5 cycles is from dead to full). And have used fairly conservative settings at 60a batt max (total) and 40a motor max (each) The enclosure is sealed up well and never ridden in the rain. And the battery is well padded.
There doesn’t seem to be any visual indication of cells shorting or burn marks or anything out of the ordinary. So I am assuming something went wrong with the BMS and it drained the 11p pack 
I managed to get ahold of a local builder that does batteries so I’m just going to get him to swap out the P group and install a new BMS.
The thing that sucks is it takes 2 months to ship these cells from aliexpress :’( Hopefully someone on this forum has a few extra cells they can spare :’(
Actually so sad I can’t ride anymore 
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That sucks, man =/ What BMS did you have in there? Do you think having easy access to individual cell levels would tipped you off sooner and made any difference?
Might not be the best indicator since there was a dead p group and you did some overcharging, but 4.1 to 4.3 is a span I’d be uncomfortable w/ running, which could again point to your BMS being insufficient.
I’m not sure which BMS it is, but here’s a pic of it.
In the measurements paper, the left side was measured from 0v so they only had a very rough decimal point. On the right side I measured from the balance lead next to it, so it has more accurate 2 decimal points. And they range from 4.14 - 4.21 which I think is normal?
If the pack where charging normally, I’d be worried about those low P groups, they could be the next to die if it wasn’t solely the BMS’ fault. I wonder what the individual cell voltage is on those groups? I balance pretty religiously b/c 100C lipos, but I thought the standard among liion folk was ±.02V?
That’s a lot of drift actually. When everything works, you shouldn’t see more than 0.01-0.02v delta, like @RyEnd said.
It’s a Bestech D140, garbage BMS (IMO 
).
I feel like BMS failures are an order of magnitude more common than cells randomly dying. I would invest in a quality BMS or go the external route.
Liitokala might have pretty inconsistent manufacturing too, if they tend to drift so much… Were they all in balance when you got it? How many cycles did you put on it since?
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Oh! didn’t know that.
Yeah, I agree. A local friend asked me to check for burn marks in case that pack shorted. But if it did, I’m pretty sure I’d be dealing with a fire
Liitokala might have pretty inconsistent manufacturing too, if they tend to drift so much… Were they all in balance when you got it? How many cycles did you put on it since?
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I got the pack from accrobrandon from his build thread here:
He had ~5 cycles through his testing, and I did another ~23 cycles (of which only 5 cycles was dead to full, the others were shorter rides)
I didn’t check if they were all balanced when I got it because I was a total battery noob, and was sure it was fine since it was such a fresh pack.
swapped out my cloud wheels today for abec 107’s
Bigger difference than I imagined!
Pros:
- Better torque: bigger difference than I thought! The torque increase was even present in the last 20% of battery
- More range: I got 27% more range! :o That was way more than expected
- Less rolling resistance: I find myself breaking too much at stops, and by the end of the ride, I adjusted to stop throttling sooner than I usually do
Cons:
- Not as comfy as cloud wheels: Very noticeable at first, but near the end I didn’t really notice other than large cracks. I also need time to re-calibrate in my head what I consider a “big” crack is now a “sketchy crack”
- slightly less top speed: As expected on DD’s
- less motor and enclosure clearance: More noticeable than I thought. At least 5 scrapes on the enclosure where it would normally be no problem. (Exact same route I take everyday)
- They felt heavier when I was dragging the board around, but that might just be placebo
Overall happy with the wheels
Another week and I’ll probably be fully used to it. Loving the extra range and torque
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So after some time with the cloudwheels and the ABEC107mms, which one do you like more?
I was going to upgrade from my basic 100mm wheels. Starting to get tired of having to slow down to get over cracks , I have an option to go to either the ABECs or the Cloudwheels, 27% range is a lot. Would you keep riding the ABECs or go back to the Cloudwheels?
I know you’re not asking me, but no contest there. Clouds all day over 107s. My 107s don’t even sniff the road these days. Just too dead of a wheel in comparison to the clouds or the 110s. And they chunk too easily.
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Right now I’m sticking with the 107’s even though the ride quality is worse like bill gordon said.
I just need the range 
I got ‘used to’ the rougher rides after about a week or so though
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