Oh this is for a full DIY, I’ve got a Pramayana with Paris 149mm TKP I’m putting the hubs on, I bought a eBoosted 18" cruiser enclosure so I’m putting both in the CNC router to get perfect holes without breaking through. I can carve out pockets for thicker batteries and electronics pretty easy
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go for it!!
I’m very excited, it will be an extreme sleeper build, I want it to look as close to an analog as possible but I’ll have a Unity with the current maxed out under there
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sounds like broken shit LOL
I would recommend using values slightly less than maximum
I’m gonna have 30/-12 battery and 20/-12 each motor to start, we will see what happens
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I was considering doing this, but wasn’t sure how accurately I could measure hole locations. How were you planning to do that? I feel like the obvious way would be to just trial and error it on some cheap material until everything lines up with the enclosure, but maybe there’s a faster way? Also, I’m very inexperienced in this regard, but some enclosures seem to want enclosure screws to be coming out normal to the deck instead of just vertical to the ground. On my re44 some of the holes on the drop were like this. What’s you’re strategy gonna be for those kinda holes? Just mark with the CNC and finish by hand? (I’m assuming we’re not talking 5 axis machine big enough for a longboard lol)
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I model the deck and enclosure in SOLIDWORKS by taking careful measurements then I export a .pdf to cut from
It’s how I did the Black Bear deck and that came out perfect
For the deck I use the bolt holes for the trucks to secure it, then I cut from the bottom
For the enclosure I will make a pocket in a piece of thick wood and chamfer the edges so it drops in, then use screws + fender wahsers to secure the lip so I can cut holes for enclosure screws and slots for the wire channel block
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Full power!
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If you are having issues changing the sleeves (as I did), try some silicone spray. Makes the process very easy by hand.
*it has to be silicone spray, can’t be another lubricant that could damage the urethane
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Glad you finally got your endless ride. 
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That’s what I’m doing with muh hubs too! Seems only right. But I have a haya, so sleeper will be VERY easily attainable. Getting close….
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I have maybe 1/2" of clearance so you can’t even see there’s an enclosure, it’s inset at the edges and it’s black so it looks just like a shadow 
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maybe 12mm of clearance
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K. That entire sentence was filled with intrigue. WHAT KIND OF MONSTER IS THIS?? Have you given a sneak peek yet?
Haha it’s not that special, here’s the full part list
- Pranayama deck
- Black 159mm Paris TKP w/ Krank 90a double street cones and WFB pivot cups
- Dual Loaded hubs w/ 77a sleeves
- 77a Caguamas w/ Jehu bearings (I’m a Zealous steel guy but Loaded was being nice to me and gave them for free)
- eBoosted 18" cruiser enclosure
- 2.0 Xenith (it’s brand new, still haven’t used it yet, very scared about the antispark being toast) w/ METR Unity
- Hoyt Puck w/ grey/black MJF Nug shell
- 12s1p P26A or 10s1p P42A w/ LTT BMS
Obviously I’m drop mounting it with 1/16" shock pads because clearance is for bitches, might put steel runners on it (cold bend some 3/32" by 1/2" mild steel bar and bolt it to the trucks so the enclosure is protected from the worst of the damage)
Gonna run screaming HFI because I don’t think Xenith/Unity can run silent HFI, 30A on the battery and 20A each motor
If you wanna see the dry fit just ping me this Friday around 9pm EST
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I say g’dayumm that’s gonna be rad. Love those shorter tkp’s on that deck. S’gonna be a fun setup.
So on 12s, you keeping the settings low because 1p, or not wanting to load the hubs too much?
don’t forget the hub needs to be torque down to 25NM per rideunlimited’s instruction
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