This is interesting and kind of exciting.
I think open gears would be great for free roll.
And power transfer.
But I also suspect I would get bothered by the noise and it may take a way from the skateboard like experience.
I kinda of wish I had an extra plate to hack up and try
I think running helicals open gear is probably not the best idea. Also, believe me you don’t want to ride open gears in a half shell helmet. They are too damn loud. I think it’d take away from the joy of a cruiser board
I kind of want to design a 3 gear drive that fits small wheels like the akashas or venom magnums… The 3rd gear in that config would be there just to space the motor away from the truck. I’ll add that to my looong project list… 
Somewhere in my garage there are straight cut gears.
But yeah. A couple of days ago my motor selection criteria was which one was most quiet.
The noise is a notable deterrent for me.
Fun to explore though.
ya, gonna explode some options this summer. (Vtt error but im gonna leave it 
) I haven’t even started cading stuff up yet
I kinda of wish I had an extra plate to hack up and try
Your wish is my command, good sir. I can send you a BN M1 motor plate. To file, defile, or otherwise have your way with.
I needed a distraction from all my other distractions…
So the Sportster finally made it back on the bench.
Basically going back to the beginning of figuring out the mounts and motor position to finalize the drive.
To move ahead and hopefully have the motor a smidge higher I am using the two piece BN clamps with a couple of extra holes added.
These stick out close to the ground a bunch…
I did get out the angle grinder to cut some bolts and take a couple milimiters off the bottom of the mount clamps…
Note the bolt on the right is no longer sticking out from the nut.
I need to get a picture of the clamps ground down.
After that I started playing with the angle of the mounts.
The new clamps and holes worked well to give me some range to move up and down.
I figured out a clever way to align the mount without the motor.
Just needed to make sure the alen key was even with the motor.
I’m doing a 20 tooth pulley onto a 36 tooth. With the 140kv motor. And 76mm wheels.
looking at the calculator again, maybe I should find an 18 tooth pulley…
I decided to Go with an idler.
I have the room and it’s single drive.
And I will run the belts super loose ok @Dinnye !!!
I am pretty happy with the look of the back…
It is not symetrical. But I am not super hung up on it.
I really enjoy the look of this thing…
The grip tape is pretty beat up. But I am hesitant to do away with the Bustin look.
I also think orange kegels would look killer on here. (I wish they were the soft ones)
Feels promising.
I rolled around in front of the house.
It’s low low.
It’s snappy.
This motor used to live on a mountain board with the esc on the middle box like I usually do.
So it has the long long legs.
Funny thing. Is I am now thinking of mounting the little pack and focbox closer to upfront to distribute the weight a bit more.
I still have to build the little 12s1p. Could be ages…
But I am going to try and electrify with this battery on top.
Easy to do with the extended cables.
Dye the Akasha’s!
Yeah. No…
I have 3 sets. All pretty well loved at this point.
Can’t get them anymore.
I would be scared that the dying process may degrade them some and cause early wear or chunking.
I wonder if there is another 76mm wheel out there with kegel pattern.
Or something exciting to try besides blue kegels.
I’ve really loved the Hoyt 83mm wheels on the MBoards site:
Obviously they’re not Kegel, but the bolt-on pulleys fit them SO nicely:
Having to get pulleys makes it so fucking annoying…
If it helps, I am pretty sure you can get the set of wheels + pulleys for under $35.
I am serious, Hoyt did a good job with these, they are really neat.
Ok… looking.
Inboard M1 Electronic Longboard Front Wheel Set w/ Bearings 80mm 78A Red
I have 4 of these and am pretty impressed with them^, but I have no basis for comparison to Ashkasha’s
