Little-Light-Longboard aka The Poorsec

Another Revival for the Bustin Sportster.

I had to look it up and I ordered this board on April 22 of 2019!!!

I still blame it on this Kami Juins video.

The joys of early days diy.

This board has had a few different drive to trains on it.

A long time ago I decided it was too short.

But it really is sweet deck with amazing foot pockets.

The last version I had of it running was super good. It was a very skateboard like 12S1P with dual Loaded Hubs.

Good stuff. Great fit with this deck. But alas I sinned. And took apart a good running board to steal the battery to make Luca a little longboard.

So it has been hanging on the wall pending a new battery and enclosure.

To get excited about it I decided to transform it to a single drive belt drive.

The loaded hubs are pretty good. But now I have the option to run Akashas.

Which are magical. Smaller. Lighter.

The dual hub motors seem heavy to me.

Maybe once I add a 6374 and Motor mounts and a pulley it will be a wash weight wise.

But nonetheless I’m chasing the single belt drive thing.

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The stuff:

Bustin Sportster

Paeis 2 Baseplates. Paris 180 up front. BN 145 in the back. Obligatory Riptides.

Ahmyo Akasha 76mm. I would say the best small esk8 wheels… you can no longer get.

Single OG Focbox.

Older Flipsky 6374 190kv

GT2B remote.

Pending build - 12S1P with JP50s and the tiny JBD smart BMS.

Enclosure is pending… probably some wood and and abs sheet…

I kinda want to get some 1wheel parts padded grips tape for it too.

I’m torn between refreshing the best up deck or maintaining the og look.

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Diy is all about putting stuff together that doesn’t go together…

So here we go

Idea TB mounts on BN axle clamps.

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Give the deck a trim

Cleaning up the mounts.


Leveling the mounts without two motors is tricky.

Oh.

I use two mounts for the look. And to protect the motor. And maybe a good Samaritan will design a handle I can attach to the back of the ideal mounts.

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The first mock up is sexy.

It sure is small. And it sure is low.

But. There are buts.

The mounts are too low to the ground.

And the Flipsky Battle hardened 190kv 6374 on 14/36 with and idler seems to have a lot of resistance.

So I have to mess with the mounts and perhaps use different motor.

And maybe not use an idler.

In fact I need to go get on the calculator to decide what gearing I will run with.

I think I will be 16/36 on 76mm.

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It nice to keep something going on the bench.


By that I mean something new and exciting. I have lots of other maintenance stuff to do.

But let’s get distracted by something shinny.

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Part of the desire to do this is sometimes I see @pecos Bustin build and it reminds how good of a deck it is.

Also the hype around the Parsec Aero. I think I can definitely call this a poor mans Parsec…

I expect mine will be smaller and lighter, and lower, and with a wood Deck which is a better vibe right…

And the excitement about the little builds. I realize this is a longboard. But for a longboard it’s dang little…

It will be bigger and heavier than Lucas board…

Besides the big motor sticking out back this is very very longboard like.

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I’d go lower KV and more motor pulley teeth. Keep the idler

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Why the lower kV?

Just to increase pulley size?

And why do you suggest keeping the idler?

I’m sure you know this, but I appreciate your input!!!

The Paradigm of choice.

6354 170kv ( also have 190)

6374 140kv

6374 190kv light one( I was gonna slap that on)

6474 190kv newer battle hardened ones.

6384 140kv

Unknown kv 6374 vintage.

The very bottom is a 6374 from Metroboard.

Not sure the KV. I expect this is a stretch. But @jack.luis @BenjaminF would you guys possibly know the KV of my vintage motor.

I suppose I should also ponder what motor may pair best with my single focbox

I expect to run 20 battery amps. And around 80 motor amps.

Is it silly to want to use a 6384? Or could it help efficiency somehow…

The 6384 would fill the gap between mounts the best as far as looks go.

Lower KV is more efficient for chill cruising, which i suspect this board is for. This is due to losses in the motor at cruising are coming from RPM - it’s iron losses you are worrying about essentially.

Also yeah, lower KV allows more pulley teeth, which allows looser belt, which allows better efficiency and freeroll.

Same goes for idler, paired with a big motor pulley it allows stupid loose belts which give even more freeroll and efficiency. One of the reasons why the parsec drivetrain is so good.

I’d probably use 140kv battle hardened 6374 from your pile of motors. Second from top. Should have no problem handling the 80A phase.

Possibly the reacher depending on kv but that’d be overkill. Only if you aren’t separating a pair because of this.

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the Reacher is 140kV.

Also for some reason I am drawn to it for this project… I might try to slap it on. if I can find a 20 tooth pulley…

I think the 140kV with 18 may end up feeling too slow.

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More trimming the deck.

I freaking love this tool..I want to go put wheel wells on all my decks…

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Measure none, drill once…

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Got way better angle on the mounts now

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Jeez Louise.

How silly is it that I really want to use the reacher because of how it fills the gap…


Maybe this shinny new 20tooth pulley is a sign saying do it!!!

I could even bump it up to 22….

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Loving this, what enclosure you thinking? Once i finish tuning the tantrum i think im going to rework my sportster enclosure to get back my clearance and go back to drop through

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Was also looking at different baseplates as I still want a slightly taller baseplate and i think it could be found if i just keep looking around for a compatible one

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