OK, I’m dumb, they are ordinary M3 screws. They just didn’t want to go in from the other side. The side with the FETs is nice and chamfered and properly cut. Running a long M3 bolt through will get really tight once you reach the other side. That’s what the problem was. I didn’t want to fuck up the thread just jamming the wrong screw in…
So I’ll just either run a tap through all the way or a screw few times.
Cool. Just smear some thermal grease on the heat sink block and bolt it on. Should do really well for thermal management.
I’ll have to either use a metal spacer or a thermal pad. The caps stick out above the block just a hair.
Either way, the screw holes are all fixed now. I’m gonna mount that little sucker and take it for a spin tomorrow. I’ll crank the phase amps to 130 and see if I spin the sprocket. Heh.
I noticed this as well on mine.
Even without a metal enclosure does anyone else’s BT module not connect? I figured I would be able to connect a few inches away with nothing in between devices but no luck.
Is the Bluetooth unit connected over internal UART? If so, then you might have to enable UART in the VESC tool.
Yeah that was it, the thing is, when the balance app is on it seems to disable UART. How do people tune while out riding?
So, I mounted the little FOCer to the scooter frame with a 1mm thermal pad and took it for a spin.
It’s AMAZING. The bluetooth connection goes to shit if I touch the throttle (even when my phone was jammed between the FOCer and battery), so I didn’t get any data logs, but my BMS app got some basic info.
The max power is limited by my 14S battery, and so is the top speed it looks like.
The throttle is now so smooth compared to the old controller, it’s unbelievable. I can take off at a snail’s pace without any jerking. Even the regen works down to walking speed. Motor runs cooler and quieter.
I did get a few cut outs. Tweaked it and now at battery max 75A, motor max 120A and ABS max 140A. Might have to tweak it some more though, it still craps out if I gun it from standstill. How high can I got on the absolute max?
What’s the best bluetooth module I can get? The NRF51/52?
Uber low max temp, nice.
That’s only the BMS temp. The battery temp also barely broke 30°C. The few times I connected to the FOCer after some hard pulls, I didn’t see temps over 40°C I believe. If I had some logs, I would be much happier though.
Ah.
I’m going to have to order a set of these.
On my ebike, I do 60A battery, 130A motor, and 150A abs max. This works for me without issues. Increasing the switching frequency can also help the controller regulate current better. Try bumping it up to 30kHz. You can also try reducing the observer gain value by as much as 50% to help with abs_overcurrent faults when gunning from standstill.
Right. The bluetooth is weak in the v1 as I’ve mentioned in the past. This is resolved in v2.
The standalone modules of either work fine.
Nice, I’ll do all of that and maybe take it out tomorrow morning before I leave for school. I already have JST connectors on the way, so next weekend I’ll have it all wired up properly.
I’ve found an NRF51 board with an accelerometer. That shouldn’t be an issue, right? I like it because it takes an external antenna and my battery enclosure is going to be all metal soon. It looks like it has all of the needed pins exposed.
The little FOCer already has an accelerometer built in. Just don’t use the external one if possible
I’ll rip it off the module if any problems arise. I want it just because of the external antenna. And it’s not like I have much choice if I want to have it by next weekend… No Amazon here 
Have any idea why my Bluetooth will not connect while using the balance app? It only works when UART is the app. Permanent UART is enabled.
And for sure you manually saved/wrote App settings after enabling permanent UART?
Yep. I believe it’s enabled by default
metr CAN would work great
