Ugh, I should have held back. I already ordered 3 pcs from AliExpress. If they require power-cycling to switch between modes they go straight into a trash can. I’ll report back when they arrive.
Thanks for the offer @Skyart. 
Probably not worth shipping stuff from US to EU though. It costs arm and leg and there’s customs and it generally sucks.
Just plug them into the charger port, itll be fine 
This looks like the “correct” variant:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006904737423.html
Edit: I ordered from the link above and received the same crap with a “decorative button”. The product description is wrong. Don’t order from here if you want an actual on/off button.
Lol yeah these seem to be an updated version of the ones I sell on my @ pevcomponents.com website
I don’t think so. Looked at the throw from both side by side and the big beams are brighter with less hot spot in the center, multi wire input on the beams for modes. And no red on the big beams. The linked cheapies are smaller and run as hot and i have heard of a failure from yathatperson i think. I could be wrong but they just different attempts. Pros and cons both ways.
Oh really? I just sort of assumed the mfg made a different version or something. Good to know. Mine run hot too but it has never really been an issue on any that I’ve shipped. When I QA test them, I do have ones that get extremely hot, presumably due to mfg assembly errors
The button has intrigued me though because as it is, I have to use a separate switch, and having one built in would be nice. The ideal setup imo though is with a remote activated switch like the ASS from Ben, but he isn’t making any more of em afaik
Where all my ee friends at? Not gonna lie, making or sourcing a switch that can handle dc voltage in the 40-80v range is a pita and instead of any single product being available there is always some extra non necessary aspect of what’s out there or it is unreliable or is dead before it was ever fully developed and available. I’ve reached put to some people who are more expert and posted on some other forums but after burning through my first and second batch of fets i got discouraged and have given up. Also probably not the best introduction to integrated circuit design - i have so little component level experience.
Mechanical switches are not a great option as once you get over 24vdc things get difficult breaking dc and preventing arcing leading to short cycle lifetimes. You just need more physical space for dc switching. Going multi break seems to help some but that is also just more space lol. Im gonna stick a fucking circuit breaker on my next build for shits and giggles - some good dc rated squareD ones in smaller form factors lol
Sell me your ass ryan! Jk
These lights take so little current and have so little capacitance that I have no issues using a normal toggle switch
I keep having to buck it down to 12v or my switches only last a few months. I think I might ride one board significantly more than you do spread among a huge quiver of builds. One 40-60 mile session and I’ve toggled the lights 6-7 times then about 1500-2k miles a summer and switches only lasting 100- 200 cycles is annoying. I just hate having more consumables and maintenance added to my board and the direct wire lights are to make maintenance and charging less frequent.
Still want that ass, ben is keeping the design shelved probably because it was sold to hoyte which is kinda donezo which if fine. Im only bitter online. In person im too busy riding
Hm interesting, you definitely have a lot more time and actuations on yours. I prefer electronic switching as well
It’s not at all hard to design and build a reliable DC switch for those voltages. But it is very hard to do it at a price that folks will pay.
Every says they want reliability but only if it’s the same price as unreliable junk. 
Almost everyone will rather take a chance on a cheap version or use a mechanical one until it fails.
Loopkeys are still super cheap and super reliable. Some folks just can’t palate their appearance.
Loop keys dont work on 18s. The resistor dies after a few uses so it don’t last and again im back to having more extra consumables.
This is why this is my hobby and not my job. Plenty of boards with the two things I want: break lights and switched aux lights out there but none scratch my itch so I struggle. Maybe something in the works from aman from zmote but nothing to even beta yet.
If there were fewer knowledgeable people focusing on the business of eskate and more shared knowledge I could leach off of something and adapt it to my particular needs. Come on and let me steal your ip (jk) I am resigned to never making a dollar off of eskate though, money fucks up so much. Best I just make a budget for eskate and try to only exceed it once in a while.
Mean-well has some reliable switched buck converters that may fit my bill but my todo list has gotten so long I haven’t even mocked them up yet… and I started another board. Im cursed by my own disorganized and flighty nature. Always chasing something shiny.
Maybe i can find an ee who will do a labor trade… except im an electrician and most ees think they are also electricians and NOW WE GOT BEEF!! Jk i love engineers just dont know any ic design guys in my area.
Once you find a module, and add input/out power spike/ESD protection, add enable input protection and isolation, add input and output fuse, and mount it all to a pcb that EE has done enough work to require you to rewire his entire house. 
Now, if a hundred of them could be sold then let’s talk. 
Totally, it’s a bit more complicated than just driving a fet that is clear. It’s not clear to me why these circuits are not some boilerplate mass produced item already as they have possibly huge applications for pev’s in general and battery storage systems. Battery voltages are going up not down. All the newer euc are 100+vdc. Basic e-bikes are 12s and controllers are available for 80v or more now. Seems like most of the circuits would be generally useful like the various raspberryPI peripherals but nothing does higher voltage. Wasn’t it just a couple years ago estates were 7&8s? Now 18s isn’t even that exciting. Why it will never be a big market item, it’s cheaper to go 12v with more products available and cheaper control and switching. Just buck it down and problem solved. I like to go on the mental adventure of figuring out things though - that satori when frustration flips to understanding 
This is also why it’s not a business proposal. Like I know my time is expensive and if i totaled my hours in this hobby at my normal rates my diy would be worth 20k… it’s not. That’s just the wrong math. Fixed my buddy’s board but spent like 20 hours on it. No way am i thinking in my head that i did $4000 of work for him. My labor for eskate just isn’t for sale. Grind culture is a cancer. And I only try to make my money at work and try desperately to work 40 or less… half successful. Everything else im giving to my family and my community. I’ve done my time doing profitable work for 16hrs a day for a decade, and it was a decade lost.
Can someone like buy the design off hoyt lol
Those AliExpress lights are tempting but I’m not sure how they work. They sell different coloured ones and “strobe” apparently. It looks like white/yellow instead of low/high beams and I would only use the switches wired up instead of the button but can’t see anything about that.
It’s only €10 I can just buy them and see, otherwise I’m also tempted to buy a bunch of 519a chips and do something myself.
I’m not sure what the R&D situation was with ShutterShock. The pevcomponents website should have a “send us money” item I feel bad getting the Aliexpress copies.
Lenses? Or just their own beam pattern?
I would do something around 519a s on a pcb from convoy and a bec from battery voltage.
Still haven’t decided lenses and mounting them either on a little 3dp thing or I wanted to put them straight on the truck as a heatsink but that would be pretty low and a single angle.
