this is how i run my lights off the battery, it just goes between the charge port and charge leads off the battery. then you can add whatever lights you desire into it and shut it off if you have a smart bms
Thx, I dont have a loop key. Can I turn of the lights by the discharge toggle switch in the BMS softwarer?
It depends on a lot of things, but yes that’s likely to work.
1 Like
Do you have a fused charge port, if so how did you wire it?
yes my charge port is fused, @Skyart built by battery and he connected the charge ports to the pack with xt60’s. that also conveniently allows me to add that pigtail in the above pics to wire in lights. i can shut them off completely in the smart bms app by turning off the discharge side of the pack.
wiring isn’t very organized but i just wanted it to all fit well enough that i could go out riding lol
3 Likes
Thanks for the video. It appears that the charge port fuse is on the BMS side of the pigtail. I appreciate the buck converter with the two USB outputs; is it USB-C? Also, do you have a link for the lights? Thanks again
1 Like
yes the fuse is on the bms side. you can grab them off amazon with usb a or usb c.
rgb strip
dc converters
edit:
talked with the seller and this buck converter is supposed to output 3a to each usb output and is hv capable with a 85v limit. ordered one, should be here mid-late next month. if i remember, i’ll post an update.
1 Like
doesn’t look like a bad choice, i’m too impatient tho lol
It’s a metal loop and I flipped it 180 degrees, removed reflector
I have used something similar to this but claimed to good for 48v. Wired to pack as @b264 posted.
YIPIN HEXHA DC Converter 12V 24V to 5V 3A 15W Dual USB Female DC DC Buck Converter Adapter Step Down Module https://a.co/d/0biRVC5
My buck converters haven’t failed, but i know i will smoke them if used in a 12s board and 4wd.
More robust solutions exist like this, but they are bulky and probably still as susceptible to hard breaking voltage spikes as the smaller ones.
20A 240W Golf CART DC 24V 36V 48V to 12V Step Down Converter Voltage Regulator Golf Cart Converter Reducer Transformer Waterproof (DC 16-58V Input) https://a.co/d/3xEJ1vq
Actual hobby grade BECs from established brands seem better, but I burned up 2 of them.
Castle Creations CSE010-0154-00 CC BEC 2.0, 14A Max Output Voltage Regulator https://a.co/d/9IKd3Lx
Using an ESC’s output voltage 5v output is a no-go for me. Maybe newer esc’s are figured out, but it’s a bad idea and i stand by that.
Automotive lights in the 48v range would be great, but they are very chunky, even the street bike ones.
E-bike lights tend to be smaller, but the really bright ones that last are easily 300$ to 50$ for mountain bikes. Voltage varies.
4 Likes
why is that? asking cause i was planning to run a racebox micro off it since it only uses around 20mA of power during recording
I don’t have a good answer beyond 2nd hand reports from years ago and superstition.
Doubles your chances of smoking the VESC, not sure how robust the raceboxes are but if it were to fail and draws massive current or shorts the 5V rail you’ll lose control of the VESC.
1 Like
Racebox micro has a lipo port. I’m probably gonna design an enclosure that mounts into your truck bolts (with an anti sink) and holds the entire assembly.
1 Like
welp, guess i’ll just run it off my buck converter then.
3 Likes
Good info.Thanks. I have not considered voltage spikes from hard beeaking.
This was exceptionally hard start and stops during my deathwish period in San Diego during Covid.
I bet a different wiring set up and reasonable esc settings wouldn’t burn them out.
If the spikes were enough to pop the buck converters, why didn’t esc’s die ? Dunno, just a guess
1 Like
This is just a general question. My brake light only has two wires. It’s either off or on when I brake. Is there anyway to have it always on but then brighter when I brake? I’m using a ubox v2 thx
