Let there be ESK8 lights

Bit late to answer but my experience with these is that they’re fragile af, and if you’re unlucky enough to pinch near the supply point, the whole thing dies. You do not want to put any weight on these

I finished the Shredlights bullbar mount for the Acedeck. There’s no way they would droop down with this. Not universal since I don’t own any other bullbar setups. I revised it a few times because it was too much filament waste in the support. The elongated bottom hole is to angle the light up or down just a bit. Let me know if you want me to edit it to fit your bars, just need the diameter and distance between the bars.

There’s also the ziptie one that should be able to hold tighter than the Shredlights handlebar mount. Just put on some rubber :wink:


Shredlight Ziptie Mount

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Im looking hard at this little number.

From what ive read so far, i can wire it through to the BMS discharge? This is the bms in there

I cant seem to work out what the discharge of the bms is i dont know what, if any converter i need to run the lights… what am i not getting here?

You will still need a buck converter to drop the voltage.

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Does anyone know if buck converters can produce flyback voltage spikes when you turn them off?

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Hey everyone, I got an led light strip and a buck converter with me, but I don’t know where I wire everything up to so that it runs off of the board battery. I’ve heard the discharge port on the BMS works but I don’t know which port that is.

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Upload a hi-res photo of your BMS if you still need help.

Be warned that wiring “bypass” like this makes it possible to kill your battery (permanently) if you leave the board on by accident.

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did someone use something like this ? It holds on the hanger by a rubber band around the pivot, I’m sceptical on what it does to the bushings and if it could prevent the trucks to turn fully


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004162478933.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.39.5acd1802shyYq1

I’ve used crap like this. Doesn’t hurt the trucks at all but they fly off after a couple bumps and they’re made of hopes and dreams.

Yeah It broke after litteraly four minute of riding

The kick to activate light switch is just about my favorite part of the build.

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Results are in.

Headlight by itself is “adequate” for night trails, good spread of light up close. Fog will be interesting to see how it fares.

Headlight and torch… no brainer. If i forget my torch, itll be ok, just a slower trip, torch and headlight is sweet, a good 30m clear view.

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I use this almost exact light but as a tail light. I used double hook-and-loop fasteners to attach it under my kicktail, just by the baseplate. I’ve had it for years. I only stopped using it because I got one with an accelerometer.

Ok so i have been setting the lighting for my build and finally found enough compromises to get the parts I wanted talking in a way that it gets me most of the functionality I wanted. There’s an issue i keep coming up against that I never see mentioned here: lights and controls setup to break the positive like a car VS controllers that break the negative, most off the shelf non vehicular lights adapted to eskate… and the ubox integrated controller.

Made for some really interesting troubleshooting because i just assumed that the ubox and other lights sold for PEVs would use a common negative/break positive scheme. Mixing parts from both schemes can get you into some weird outputs with lights acting strangely and controllers getting back fed and such. Its been a fun ride getting it sorted lol

I wanted to set up the lights for my board to get a couple things that are bog standard for traditional vehicles: minimal latency break light, daytime visibility bright running lights, headlights preferably with a high and low setting and a visor to see about 100’ and not blind oncoming traffic, and rgb led under glow using the TTL module to get that x acceleration splash carve effect

I tried to get everything in 12v but that was harder than I thought. This is what Im running and what its doing

Dedicated break light from solid circuits controlled by the ubox break light output. The light is a champ, great design and print qualities is top notch. Brightness is on par with good vehicle assemblies. In a perfect world it would have isolated dual outputs (running and break) but this is a minor gripe- it does what it does and is designed for software control of the state to create effects like breaking, flashing, pulsing, and whatever. I tried to have a 50% duty cycle PWM controller create a running light (dimmer, pulsing) and then break (bright 100%) but because the ubox is breaking the negative and the other components were common negative it causes strangeness with my other components when i try mix the break output from the ubox and other pilot inputs so it’s just a break light for me.

Running lights are just mini 12v motorcycle lights. Common negative. Front are white/amber, rear are red, red, amber. In the front i have both white (6500k) and the amber lights on to warm up the color. It causes some pretty bad artifacts in the edges of the beam but idgaf and the majority of the beam is nice and warm and renders color nicely. They’re a bit too bright but I’ve decided i like this. I might replace the lenses front and back with a domed frosted ones to get more brightness at larger viewing angles and reduce the throw of the beam. Rear i run red&red on and amber disconnected. I tried to have the break signal input for one red output but ubox cock blocked me again. If i could find devices with isolated wiring or rewire the lights i could make it work but this will do for now. Might swap them out with the version with no amber lights but idk. It’s working so it’s hard to pull it apart for me. Mount is just a piece of alu bar stock with some holes drilled. Im working on a 3d printed mount to integrate both the ttl break and these into one but maybe for a new build… cause it works


Beam artifacts


Basic mount may get painted and rounded off if I don’t replace it

Headlights are 5v and are like a crapy version of the lights ShutterShock is working on. Drawbacks are the power source and driver and mount. They are bright as fuck so thats good. Mounted to the front trucks but the mount is too far forward for my taste (the visor I’m making keeps bumping stuff). They also have a physical button so i have to reach down and turn them on and set the brightness. The led uses 3.6v forward and I’m looking at making a 12v setup that will go into the housing but maybe not. Ideally the lights would be 12v input, small driver circuit to drop forward voltage to 11v with a similar light output and have a pwm controlled input to drop the brightness to 40-50% duty cycle. I have to redo the stock mounts as they don’t lock down and loosen up over time. Im working on a keyed version that will be basically a shaft collar with a keyed ptu insert to lock them to the truck while pushing them back a bit and cupping the light at the mounting bolt to stabilize the positioning. I hate 3d cading and only have free versions of stuff and now that fusion 360 is getting rid of the free license i’m probably going to farm it out to someone who isn’t using tinkcad lol

I think i have the room with a better mount to shift out to the wheel a smidge, bring the light back a smidge, and make the trimmed headlight visor sit behind the wheel rubber so it doesn’t bump but that’s a problem for future me. This isn’t wheel biting btw, this is my trucks as loose as i can ride leaning all 200lbs of my frame on the board edge and pushing down while holding on to a wall to get the pic and only just looking like it touched… it actually has a little gap you can’t see because of the angle

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Have a link to that kick switch?

@Pecos sorry, i dontt. I picked it up in store (Jaycar Australia) Its not as robust as i was hoping, some 4wd fun last week saw me rip the face of it off so while ive replaced it with a reinforced version of the same switch, ill probably end up having to replace that with a flush momentary switch at some point.


it should be enough :slight_smile:

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This fucked up little unit runs off 3 x 18650 and is brighter than twin SL1000’s, spreads wider and is telescopic for focus.

Will be giving it a run tonight about 3am

It might be a little savage, sure… given i was run over last week in broad daylight… its become an us or them thing for me :laughing:

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What model / brand it? looks gorgeous.

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Do you have a hyperlink for that?

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