The main battery pack?
The voltage is too high. It would require a buck converter. I might…
The main battery pack?
When you have space for this ? CHF 3.32 13％ Rabatt | DC-DC 10A Einstellbare 60V 48V 36V 24V 6,5 V bis 30V 24V 12V 3V Auto Ladegerät Regler Step Down Buck Converter Power Supply Module
DC DC 10A Adjustable 60V 48V 36V 24V 6.5V to 30V 24V 12V 3V Car Charger Regulator Step Down Buck Converter Power Supply Module|Inverters & Converters| - AliExpress I use it on two boards . Working well
Oh nice I was looking for that but didn’t know how to search for it.
About to hit up Aliexpress and go… buck wild!
Yup, there’s a whole wiki for buck converters in the citadel:
Plenty on the list. Add more if you got links
As someone who’s done both extensively…
Use the board battery and a buck converter. Abso-fucking-lutely. Buck converters are like $5-ish.
if i need something smaller i will remember. my setup works perfectly with two leds
I have several Convoy lights, an M1 as my EDC and an S2 that I have installed a magnet in the base to make a wonderfully versatile shop light - great for sticking inside a piece of equipment to get light where you need it, hands free.
All of those drivers have various modes, so I would say go for one of the brighter ones, and then turn it down as needed.
I do foresee possible vibration-related issues (if the vibration is bad enough to cause the battery to temporarily lose contact, it will switch modes on you), so I’d recommend throwing in a couple of rubber o-rings at either end to keep the battery from traveling too far. Size 113 fits perfectly.
With all that being said, for anything brighter than notice-me lights (To see, not just be seen), if runtime is at all an issue, the best solution is to power them from the board’s main battery. Yes, it’s more complicated to do, but the practically unlimited runtime, not to mention never having to replace batteries, or even worse, having batteries die mid-ride, more than makes up for it in my opinion.
Thanks, that’s good info. I do see the advantages of powering directly from the board battery but I want to keep things simple. I currently use a 18650 powered flashlight attached to my helmet and it’s actually fine even for seeing, not just for being seen. It’s just a bit heavy and uncomfortable to carry on the helmet. I haven’t had a problem with forgetting to charge the battery. Plus, it’s easy enough to carry spare 18650 cells in the service box that I always carry in my backpack anyway.
I’ve burnt through two mosfet modules, clearly there’s something I’m just not understanding
Here’s what I have.
Battery (12s 50v’ish) is linked to the +/- of the mosfet module, step down converters linked to the +/switched negative of the mosfet module, COBs then connected to the step-down converters. The plan was to connect the VESCs VCC and GND up to the input on the mosfet module (optically isolated FWIW), so turning on the VESC turns on the mosfet. This all worked for 30 or so seconds (turning the light on and off), but after that the light remains on.
For the modules I’ve tried, the two legs of the mosfet give a resistance reading of near-zero, the one I haven’t tried has a much much larger resistance. This leads me to believe I’ve cooked them and they’ve failed open (?).
I thought I’d be within the specs of the FR120N, but apparently there’s something I’m missing. Here are a few bits of info from the datasheet.
Any help would be much appreciated.
How are they done?
do you have a separate battery in your enclosure or how d’you power it?
Is a separate battery I did a mini enclosure and screw it under the nose
But if you use a step down you can connect it directly to your battery
had that idea last time when building (sadly failed my builds)
so i can just put a second pair of + and - wires to my battery and connect that to a stepdown>light? (not that much knowledge in how electronic energy works)
If you are not that much knowledge in how electronic energy works
I will recommend you to find someone
Or just use the battery light (I prefer using it like this)
You need to find the right step down for you use
step down is easy
just looked it up and apparently i can run multiple circuits from one battery
(path of least resistance fucked up my understanding of electricity)
Has anyone yet made a Picatinny rail for sk8 trucks? I wanna run Picatinny mount flashlight holders and rail lights as those are super reliable and the mount is sturdy and won’t move at all while riding.
I also need a Picatinny rail for my helmets because shredlights stupid velcro stickers rip off too easy.
I think yes but don’t remember name
They are really nice
Also the action mount you can hook more different devices
And the mount is sturdy and won’t move at all while riding
I’ve used a few gopro-style mounts too, including on my helmet.
I don’t mind them for security, they don’t throw lights across the road at least. but they tend to bend or swivel when rocked with a big bump or drop. they’re good but not as ideal as picatinny IMO