Is anybody using the Convoy S2 lights? I’m thinking of giving them a try. They run on 18650 batteries, which is convenient. I’m just not sure on the driver. These are the available options:
7135*3 output current 1050mA
7135*4 output current 1400mA
7135*6 output current 2100mA
7135*8 output current 2800mA
the bigger current ,the brighter and hotter flashlight
Can anybody tell me which one would be the best to get if I’m to use two on the front truck?
It looks as though the 7135*6 is pretty popular but 2.1A seems a bit excessive. The battery would last just a little over an hour.
I have several Convoy lights, an M1 as my EDC and an S2 that I have installed a magnet in the base to make a wonderfully versatile shop light - great for sticking inside a piece of equipment to get light where you need it, hands free.
All of those drivers have various modes, so I would say go for one of the brighter ones, and then turn it down as needed.
I do foresee possible vibration-related issues (if the vibration is bad enough to cause the battery to temporarily lose contact, it will switch modes on you), so I’d recommend throwing in a couple of rubber o-rings at either end to keep the battery from traveling too far. Size 113 fits perfectly.
With all that being said, for anything brighter than notice-me lights (To see, not just be seen), if runtime is at all an issue, the best solution is to power them from the board’s main battery. Yes, it’s more complicated to do, but the practically unlimited runtime, not to mention never having to replace batteries, or even worse, having batteries die mid-ride, more than makes up for it in my opinion.
Thanks, that’s good info. I do see the advantages of powering directly from the board battery but I want to keep things simple. I currently use a 18650 powered flashlight attached to my helmet and it’s actually fine even for seeing, not just for being seen. It’s just a bit heavy and uncomfortable to carry on the helmet. I haven’t had a problem with forgetting to charge the battery. Plus, it’s easy enough to carry spare 18650 cells in the service box that I always carry in my backpack anyway.
It’s a FR120N Isolated MOSFET linked up to two step-down converters (inside that black box). Each step-down converter will power a small COB LED strip (12v less than 1A).
Battery (12s 50v’ish) is linked to the +/- of the mosfet module, step down converters linked to the +/switched negative of the mosfet module, COBs then connected to the step-down converters. The plan was to connect the VESCs VCC and GND up to the input on the mosfet module (optically isolated FWIW), so turning on the VESC turns on the mosfet. This all worked for 30 or so seconds (turning the light on and off), but after that the light remains on.
For the modules I’ve tried, the two legs of the mosfet give a resistance reading of near-zero, the one I haven’t tried has a much much larger resistance. This leads me to believe I’ve cooked them and they’ve failed open (?).
I thought I’d be within the specs of the FR120N, but apparently there’s something I’m missing. Here are a few bits of info from the datasheet.
had that idea last time when building (sadly failed my builds)
so i can just put a second pair of + and - wires to my battery and connect that to a stepdown>light? (not that much knowledge in how electronic energy works)
Has anyone yet made a Picatinny rail for sk8 trucks? I wanna run Picatinny mount flashlight holders and rail lights as those are super reliable and the mount is sturdy and won’t move at all while riding.
I also need a Picatinny rail for my helmets because shredlights stupid velcro stickers rip off too easy.
