Legit DIY Onewheel XR build guide

Looks like a classic Ali conversation to me lol

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It arrived. The quality is really really nice

Cheers @Enginir

Can’t wait to get it built but no wheel so mehhh

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Where are you, I think I saw you’re in the UK? If you’re London based I might be able to loan my Sunkko. This is a project I really want to see.

I’m Peterborough way. I’ll bodge something together haha but that’s really kind of you man

No worries, thought it was worth a go! Good luck!

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Just got the kit, I’m super happy with it the quality is awesome. If only the phub wheel shipped this fast, it has been a week and still not shipped.

If we could get a hub with the regular onewheel tire size I would definitely buy a second kit.

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Got my kit all build up, but the foot sensors weren’t really working. So i removed the pull up half of the voltage divider as it makes no sense to me, 2.2k pull up and 2.2k pull down may as well have neither. I had it working perfect on the bench. But i think something got damaged in the soldering/reassembly/hotglue and now the circuit is all kinds of broken. :tired_face:

I think ill make a whole new sensor at this point.

Might check the fpc connection first, a voltage divider is really needed in my design as the pull up and pull down resistor keeps the ADC value neutural at 1.65 otherwise the velostat shorts too easily and wont let you off the board even if you heel up pretty high, in my design the velostat actually shorts the pull up resistor so you might wanna check the circuit again. but dont worry we can send you our v2 footpad for free,I keep some spare parts in case this situation happen, it has most of the circuits smt on the fpc. just pay for shipping if you need them XD (DHL air $23).

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you kinda have to turn the rt app button on at the right side of the vesctool to have realtime adc readings

It should be at ~0v when open, not 1.65v.

If the voltage raises too easy, then try a lower resistance pulldown.

Adding the pull-up won’t make it less likely for the velostat to short, it makes it so that you’re always already half way shorted.

Doesnt matter what values you get when the footpads are not pressd, only 2 things to make sure is that 1.There is a significant difference in ADC between pressed and not pressed(3.3v 1.65v in my design) 2.When the footpads are pressed the ADC value is greater than ADC value when FP not pressed.

Would you please share a video on your current setup, so i can figure out whats wrong? also if you need the footpad schematic for better understanding i can send one.

It was floating around 1.65 but only went up to 1.75 when standing on it.

Instead I made a new sensor. I use a plotter/vinyl cutter to create a circuit on 3" wide copper tape, and then transfer tape to apply it.

After assembling it I measure the resistance and had 500 ohm with a very soft touch, so I used 390 ohm pull down resistors, and now I have a nice full range from 0v to 3v when I apply pressure.

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Thats some next level craftsmanship, congratulations! the transfer tape idea is genius

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Before this I tried applying it straight to the velostat, but it seems the conductive adhesive acts as ā€œpressureā€ so it didn’t work. Squeezing these did nothing.

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using this technique can bring down the cost of footpads by alot. since the fpc are not easy, I find that the sticky side of the copper is not effectively conductive. So tape it to velostat is not gonna work, they claimed to be doubleside conductive but I guess the sticky tape just blocks that

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If you go for a Diy sensor, the fugineer hamburger structure also works great, ia had it on my very first build. copper+velostat+copper

Think it’s necessary to switch out the foot pads?

Nope if yours works great out of the box, you dont need full range from 0-3v, you just need a siginificant change between pressed/not pressed.

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that’s great, I have a silohuette cameo I’ll be doing that with, got a link to the copper sheets used? :yum:

I used 3" off a roll, but if I was purchasing, I’d probably try this

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