Lamboardhini | Hummie | 10S1P | 149KV | Boa 100

Waterproofing some enclosures is such a pain though, I think I might just try to vacuum seal the electronics and add a drain hole in the enclosures

I will have a look. I was thinking of something semi sticky to put around along the edge and even out with my finger. I cant find good words for what I want here… but it should be easy to remove if I want to

I agree with all this.

And I’ve tried waterproofing the internals and adding a drain hole.

What I suggest the most is running the wires through the enclosure (typically with connectors epoxied through, but you could also run just the wires through) instead of over the lip. And also using butyl rope/tape on the lip. And not putting a battery inside that doesn’t fit in the enclosure, requiring a gasket. Gaskets are evil. If your battery doesn’t fit, then use a smaller battery or make a new enclosure.

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What cells are these?

What a cliffhanger !!!
Been some time since I enjoyed a build thread this much.

Great, great work. Love the attention to detail.

Get that surgery over with so I can nominate you for something :kissing_heart:

Also give us the batt info, me and Brian are desperate to know!!!

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They are NMC cells. Salvaged from a hv battery module.

The deck rework is not a big deal… but might give sensitive people difficulties to sleep at night. :thinking:

I saw it as less work for me repairing the deck than buying a new one and have the whole routing makeover done again. I wouldn’t have done the deck repair if the deck was in any way moving or flexing a lot. It was very stiff.
After the hit I rode the deck home standing majestically on the front truck like a hood ornament (to avoid any more damage)

The deck was forced and (twisted?) into the hardest turn it could possible imagine… causing the enclosure to press against the ground.

Easy fix. Some epoxi and sanding… adding more of that dirty feel to the enclosure which I seem to like

Here is the largest crack. And some pieces broke lose from the base plate seat

Here is another crack in the same direction

My bracket got a bit bent and the bolts slightly crooked. This one I hammered out and replaced the bolts.

I drilled deep (5cm) small holes in the direction of each crack. Then twisted the board (the wrong way) using clamps to get the cracks to widen slightly. Then injected the kind of glue which expands a lot, using a syringe. Forcing in as much glue as possible.

Then tightening down with clamps. The baseplate seat cracks I rework with epoxi.
IMG_01732

My printed charge port holder broke and the wire isolation got torn

I modelled a new improved version.


Now sitting flush

So far the board has run 640km. Last 400km has been after these fixes. It seems to be holding great and I have not seen anything alarming regarding the deck so far. I hope it stays that way :crossed_fingers:

Here is a picture from the other day. Sharing a pineapple pizza in the sun in the company of the Rat board
Sometimes life smiles at you, better enjoy it.

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I like your loop key mount it’s very similar to the one in my SR-71 build, a great spot for it imo

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Fuck the police

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So happy your build finally got it’s official publication on the forum, keeping it in a true DIY fashion as always :slight_smile:

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I definitely saw this before… very nice build :+1:t2:
Agree it is a very convenient place to have it …just plug and go. I always had it on the side previously and it annoyed me because for some reason I always started looking for it on the wrong side

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Fuck yeah dude :call_me_hand: Great build and really enjoyed the level of DIY in your build thread. Keen to see progress on this. If you’re enlarging the cutout or routing dropouts suggest skinning the deck for some more strength. There’s a few cracked decks around without additional strengthening.

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ftfy, unless delcare innocent by court

Just when i thought DIY was dead.

Cracking thread dude!

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nice build and excellent writeup - I really love that you took a broken Unity and made it work - its so opposite to some build threads where they end up shorting one and buying another :joy:

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how big was the Vdrop?

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Guys it’s really heart warming to see the appreciation for my DIY stuff. Thank you all!. I always enjoy looking through peoples threads where they take a different path :smiley:

I bought a sheet of CF and the idea was to skin after the routing but the deck felt like a rock so I didn’t do it. I might reconsider though. If skinned, I suppose the layer should be put on bottom side for the better effect?

Definitely not :scream: Love all your stuff btw! :raised_hands:

:recycle: The way of life baby!
I just enjoy taking things and give them a purpose again. Man I should have made a repair thread of the broken coffee machine I bought. That was an adventure.

That I didn’t measure. It was 18awg wire (0,021ohm/m)… <30cm at 9A… so perhaps 60mV… ish
so… ~0,5W loss. Would that warm up the wire to body temp?
Is this why you are asking? :grin:

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nah more concerned about losses during charging,energy that could’ve ended up in the cells :man_shrugging: You’ll be fine towards the end as current creeps closer to 0 tho, the voltage will rise to w/e the output is

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Ah I hear you!
I could also tune down the charging current slightly. I use a 9S 7A WATE charger which I DYIified into a 10S 8,5A charger. I bet the losses in the charger are superior when it comes to charging :relaxed:

Thing is I want charge quick to minimise the time I need to keep the board under observation. Now I only need 30min of charging for my 20km morning route.

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I mean, if the pouches are 25Ah, thats not even 0.5C. Swap to a 12 AWG and u could increase that current alot more if thats your ambition. (Granted I know nothing of those cells, but they’re usually specced higher on current then cylindricals).

I have 12S8P(samsung 48X) since last week in my daily board, have a 3A charger so I’m sure thats gonna take a while xD. I’m at 40% SoC still after a weeks commuting.

I would use glass fiber instead of carbon or aramid or TP fibers.