would doing 2 lipos in parallel last long enough for a 12s4p? I honestly think heat would be the biggest factor in that case right?
also that case
would doing 2 lipos in parallel last long enough for a 12s4p? I honestly think heat would be the biggest factor in that case right?
also that case
Yeah. Tips got hot…
Got it! I’ll get that green lipo. As for the charger, i’m not sure what to look for, saw two options that stood out on HK
What’s with the major price diff? Pardon my ignorance, i’m not too well versed with lipo stuff yet.
@Linny, a) the cheap one has 11W, the expensive one 200W. b) Don’t buy the cheap one, it doesn’t even seem to balance. Got a “balance charger” along with my first coax heli back in the days, which tried to set my house on fire after a few months. We literally survived by luck. I then tore it down and found that it wasn’t balancing but just had a cell based end-of-charge method.
I’ve seen this brand floating around quite a bit, would this be a good choice?
https://www.amazon.com/SKYRC-LiIon-Battery-Charger-Discharger/dp/B01MZ1ZZ7Z
I was looking at that one, seems pricey for what it is but I guess an acceptable price.
I got my imaxb6 on hobbyking for only like $20 so $30 more for an integrated power supply seems a bit.
I do need another one and I only have one power supply for the one I have… I prob will get it
I wish I had noticed this when I bought mine. I run mine out in the open, maybe I’ll build a cardboard enclosure for it one day, who knows
3s 6000mah has never quit on me mid-pack (13s4p is the biggest I’ve done though)
SkyRC imax b6 (non clone/fake) seems the popular recommendation. There are fancy new stuffs, but it’s always a bit of a gamble with new stuff. But then, this stuff is really cheap so it’s a gamble anyway.
If it’s just for this lipo, get one with AC PSU built-in. If you want good fancy stuff, get iCharger or Revo Powerlab.
It’s easy to drop some piece of metal when building batteries. I say cover up all the live contacts.
Man, i’m glad i asked in my local DIY group before ordering.
Not sure if you guys remember @ervinelin from the builders forum, since he quit DIY esk8 and FPV, he had a Revolectricx that he doesn’t use anymore, and does not forsee ever charging big lipos again, so he said he’ll lend it to me indefinitely.
Oh hey Revolectrix has their battery factory in Singapore. Nice score. I miss @ervinelin’s builds.
Oh also, if the lipo i get is a 2s or a 4s, would that work ok? Ervine’s digging through his collection and might find some big lipos
It’s safest to go with the variants that I have tested in the past, as you want to hit the sweet spot for the current of 1200A to 2000A, and that depends a lot on battery voltage and internal resistance. Keep in mind that the welder basically shorts out the battery into the spot, hence current is directly given from Ohm’s law.
EDIT: in addition to that, the weaker Turnigy models that I had used when starting this, and that you can see in my Youtube videos, died quickly from the high current pulses.
I run these ones. When I first got it, I used just one battery for a couple of cycles, but I found that the battery got way too warm for my liking with the speed that I weld at.
If you are happy to go sloooooowwwww, one battery will be enough, but I would definitely recommend going with 2.
I have built like 40 packs now and the tips are still great, i clean them with a soft wire brush and occasionally sand them back to round if they are getting a bit out of shape.
Don’t even worry about fitting the foot pedal, just go for auto or if you do want the foot pedal, add a connector in line so you can easily disconnect foot pedal for storage.
And don’t bother with the probe holder. It sucks.
Cool! Afew questions, i don’t have my lipo nor balance charger yet so i can’t do anything.
Does it run upon plugging in of the lipo? Or do i have to plug it to the PC to upload firmware?
And, what happens if the two prong’s tips accidentally touch? Dos and don’ts?
I’m faster in stomp mode.
Just assemble and start working.
If you hit the foot pedal while the probes touch, then the unit will attempt to push energy into a dead short, and eventually time out. That doesn’t hurt the welder but is a quite heavy punch for the battery. What you should never do however is having the probes touch different poles of the battery that you are working on. If that battery is strong enough, then it can push heavy current back into the unit and damage it.
Yeah the wire gauge is tiny, so im sure xt30 will be sweet
I find the probes get way way too hot before my battery is too hot. And I have to go sloooooow. With another set of probes, might be able to go fast enough to warrant 2 lipos.
I prefer the foot pedal. I love the auto mode warning chirps though.