Juma Type 200 Trucks

@Rudi thanks for the analysis. That is an M6 Class 10.9 shoulder bolt, which means it would require 13,282N (or 2978lbsf if you think in US units) for it to yield in shear. If you encounter something with that much force, that bolt is the least of your troubles :slight_smile:

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I wouldn’t be. Those bolts are not in pure shear at all. Unless maybe you smash your board sideways into a curb super hard. There will be some small component of the force in shear due to the bolt angle, but it looks like the overwhelming majority of the force will go directly into the hanger. I assume there’s some sort of bushing between the pivoting steering knuckle and the main hanger.

Edit: my apologies, i didn’t realize the entire truck pivoted like a channel truck. In the case, it’s down to the kingpin. Similar to the matrix IIs, this approach has been proven out for years, so i wouldn’t be worried unless it was a low quality kingpin.

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@Juma_Skate do these trucks actually have bushings, or are you using the steering geometry to create all the resistance required?

Super cool truck anyway

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Springs (see here at 7 min 30)

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That appears to be for damping (slowing down movement) only

What do you think about the truck plates and how they mount onto the trucks?

Well, I’m biased against any truck that has more than one moving part! Thanks for the response! I don’t think the bolt will actually shear off, just concerned how it might wear.

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What worries me more than shear loads is wear, tear and metal fatigue that will accumulate over 100’s of km’s.
If trucks won’t feel sloppy after 1k km’s then there may be something to them. The small ball joing bolts give me surfrodz vibes and what appears to me as cast iron don’t give me hopes that they won’t snap in a deeper ditch. But I love myself proven wrong. The design itself is beautifull and I would love this to be realiable in long run.

Oh yeah, motor mounts appear to have nothing to ‘‘lock in to’’ so those too could become sloppy fast.

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I was told by @Yeahthatperson there is a bushing in the middle but it didn’t help a lot with tuning for rebound. I might be wrong in how he was telling it to me

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The steering geometry uses an inherently stable setup, similar to automotive steering, meaning the rider’s weight brings the trucks to centerline, which differs from RKP trucks, where the rider’s inertia will overcome the bushing’s ability to center the board over a certain speed. The function of the adjuster on the back of the trucks is to control feel; it will adjust the steering resistance.

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Every mechanism will wear, including those found in your car, so what matters is how they wear and if that makes a difference in the function or performance. We’ve gone to great lengths to engineer long term durability and precision, from the selection of materials, surface finishing techniques, to the application of bearings and lubrication used. Every critical feature we design is analyzed with FEA and the entire truck is tested exhaustively in real-world environments.

We’re in this to build quality gear, not to quickly spit something out of a factory. That’s why we’re confident that few companies will go to the effort to build something similar.

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Any update on riding these?

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May I ask why those axes/screws are tilted?

image

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@DavidF you’ve identified what’s called SAI (steering axis inclination) or KPI (kingpin inclination), which is responsible for generating camber thrust. Camber thrust is what lifts the entire board when you steer/lean, raising the potential energy of the system. Our lovely friend gravity likes to keep us down and encourages the lowest potential energy state. So in effect, gravity is using the rider’s weight as a mass damper, assisted by friction and other lossy parts of the system.

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Doesn’t it cause some loss of contact surface when used wih hard flat PU wheels for example?
Not trying to be a dick, just to understand :stuck_out_tongue:

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It’s a very common principle used in automotive steering design. There are also some rather complex geometric dependencies in the chassis and inner vs outer wheel that have to be considered. I can’t possibly do the explanation justice in a single message. The net result though is typically increased traction, with the inner wheel in this case growing a larger contact patch further outboard and compensating for excessive negative camber with the outer wheel.

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This guy makes really excellent videos explaining detailed automotive concepts. I haven’t watched this one, but it’s probably worth it

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Yeah, when on the bro96 the angles are sooooooo wrong it didn’t feel good. I put on bamboo gtr, with angle risers to give slight upward in the front, slight downward in the back, feels much better. Feels stable at speed, and can turn right at slower speeds

I think I have all video shit, just need to edit now

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Really looking forward to seeing your review!

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Really looking forward to seeing decent pricing.

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