on the grub screws
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Interesting. Maybe a longer (deeper?) collar would help with this? How many cases of this failure mode are you aware of?
Looks like that will always be the weakspot, even if strengthened.
How about an optional, additional secondary clamp exerting force around the perimeter, hose clamp style? But a refined low profile design.
Belt and suspenders redundancy for confidence and longevity
It’s anecdotal, but both sets of those clamps that I have are not cracking. They have some dents from hitting rocks but other than that are still in good shape. Two other sets in our group are also crack free.
yeah would only need to be a few mm but would help massively. the wall is just too thin.
just mine it happen 6-8month ago and not ridden since
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is there not enough axle length for thanes, or is it some other factor
Not that you were waiting on me or something but apologies for not following up sooner, yesterday got crazy and today worse(ish).
Yeah same but I do work in them and change control environments for my day job its not all that complicated. Will follow up privately.
No matter, nor surprising. That is my intended use case anyways I just don’t wanna be the douche in the mountain bike trails making as much noise as a Suron or something. The moons I used to run were loud belts are… quiet unless I’m braking hard in which case skipping teeth is pretty noisy lol.
I know PC to be quite decent but also incredibly difficult to print with; Curious how well ASA would work. Arguably speaking if there was some ductility in the print it would prevent shock and shear forces from shattering the print. ASA in my experience has been pretty legit for most things including HTD5 wheel pulleys.
I did get time yesterday after work to get a Matrix II adapter whipped up using the same design language as your Rosa adapter.
Obviously not yet tested, and such and such - dont want to post a screenshot without also sharing the deets:
Matrix II JD Adapter v1.step (69.3 KB)
Depending on how long my mental faculties stay with me this evening I’ll probably start working on the Rockstar II adapters.
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Could a version to replace Stooge open gears be made?
It’s open source, others are more than welcome to try.
I will not be putting my own man-hours into such a task.
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Do you mean a version of these that are open gears, to replacing using Stooge ones? Or do you mean an adapter for Stooge trucks, that would allow this closed system to replace the Stooge open system?
A version that will replace the open gears. i have seen grease fly off the gears. My hope is an enclosed system with increase longevity and cleanliness.
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Personally I don’t grease my stooge gears, I’ve found that greasing them leads to a bunch of dirt getting caked onto the surface that would have otherwise just been able to be wiped off, I’m at well over 1500 miles with my current open gear setup and haven’t even needed to swap my motor pinions, the whole setup still runs just as well as the day I built it
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On my raceboard running 12T pinion on kart wheels with reachers there’s so much torque on that poor 12T pinion that there’s a very significant amount of power loss if I don’t grease. It’s in huge part due to the inefficiency that comes from running too few teeth (engineering principle: if possible always aim for 17T or more). Completely agree that with grease they become disgusting. I’ll be making a closed gear drive for it eventually.
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Same, been running open gears for +3k miles now without grease. No issue so far.
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Do you reckon part of the loss could also come from the rougher profile of laser cut wheel gears vs hobbed?
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The rougher profile disappears after a few rides so I don’t think so.
That may not work well if they are hardened. It’s rather easy with an arbor press if they are not hardened.
I’ve done this before with an arbor press on hardened pinions*
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you know someone’s opinions are truely hardened, when you need an arbor press to persuade them.
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