So for clatrifiation…just unplug the one XT connector to disconnect the BMS? or unplug each and every connector to the BMS?
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it works with V1 and +
Maybe not all plus so watch out
I’ve read that some Firmware updates prevent certain types of mods including running power through the charging port.
I have a Onewheel plus.
So hopefully my firmware won’t care if there is no communications input from the BMS.
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So i just finished a rough draft of my aluminum EGO battery Side Caddy. Seems super strong. In fact, strong enough I think to hold my 7 amp battery. The rectangular shape of the aluminum sheet metal is just roughed in. It obviously needs to be trimmed for safety. Now I’m tempted to buy an english wheel to roll a three dimensional curve to hug the fender.
The Bracket is something I fabricates a few years ago from ABS Sheet plastic for the track and prongs from male 120 volt electrical plug.
Its not wired up yet. But i’m liking this better than the fender mounted method that is the standard approach.
The bracket is L shaped and is held in place with the bottom of the L sanwiched between the fender and the side rail. I used the standard fender bolts to clamp the fender in to place.
So can I get a little more advice from someone who has done the zombie modification.
Here is what is happening when we bypass/remove the BMS. We patch the orignal OW+ battery directly to the controller by connecting to the 56 volt connection that normally runs from the BMS to the controller.
Now the OW+ runs but it won’t turn off. That seems to make sense because some of the small wires that run to the BMS are likely switch wires. So the BMS is probably the main switch and now with the BMS effetively removed, there is no switch and it is always on.
So even though we are using the original OW battery, we are emulating the Zombie modificaton becasue there is no BMS.
Are we getting the expected result for the Zombie Mod? Always ON? No functioning power switch?
Is that how people run the Zombie Mod, you turn the OW on by jamming in the EGO battery and you turn the Power off by yanking the Ego battery out?
Have we wired this wrong? Or do most zombies get an extra solid state switch added to restore the functionality of the stock switch?
Edit:
I found the answers to all of the above questions on youtube.
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Blue wire from the bms to ground in a momentary way and you have the on/off switch from the bms.
Edit: I didn’t read it all, if you don’t use bms, this doesn’t help 
tested on onewheel plus
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You have to put an inline switch if you want to be able to turn it off. Or just use an xt60 and unplug it
Exactly, i just figred that out earlier today. I’m also noticing that the OW battery seems perfect but the BMS seems defective. The BMS does a perfect charge cycle and balances the cells perfectly. But when it is time to operate, the BMS sends no % battery capacity info to the controler. Presumably, that info travels over the wires in the com port. Then it uses some solid state switch to cut off the voltage to the controller (58, 53, 26, 17 volts). Those are the voltage percents that display on the phone app just before the controller powers down from lack of volts.
Meanwhile the battery voltage is fine and the OW+ appears to have complete range if we run power directly from the battery to the controller.
I realize that there is a potential hack to thei situation. I could insert a switch that bypasses the BMS for operation and then connects the BMS for charging. Then I would not have to worry about cells unbalancing. All it would take is one switch that woudl join the red BMS input to the Red BMS output.
I like the idea because the same switch would also isolate the OW+ internal battery from an auxilary EGO battery. So If I fully depleted the internal battery and booster battery together, I coudl cut the depelted battery out of the circuit and swap in a fresh Ego battery.
Before I do that, I have one question…see next post.
I’m curious if anyone knows of an aftermarket BMS that would take the place of the OW+ BMS. I’d love to order just the original OW+ BMS from future motion but I’m assuming they won’t help me out. They insist on servicing everything in house even if it costs the customer several hundred dollars in shipping charges.
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You won’t find an aftermarket bms that communicates with the controller. Have you checked all of your wires inside of your harness? Ive seen quite a few people that had a broken wire that cased bms error
broken sensor wires or com wires? The sensor wires all show voltage. The com wires go to the controler, not the battery. I could see a broken sensor wire causing the BMS to pul the plug on the power to the controller. But that should not be the case given no broken sensor wires and perfect cell balancing activity during recharge. So I’m thinking some solid state switch is bad causing the BMS to kill the voltage in response.
Do you have a different theory?
I have seen problems with broken wires in the wire loom from the controller to the bms. Just making sure you have continuity on all wires from bms to controller.
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So, it looks like the problem is now fully diagnosed. A small area of corrosion on the BMS correponding to just one of the balancing resistors has resulted in the BMS getting a false zero voltage reading on one of the cells. The BMS is also unable to balance that cell because it can’t run any discharge cycles on that cell. So I’m going to try to talk FM into selling me a replacement BMS. That discussion will probably fail. In parallell, we are going to try to reconnect the affected resistor to the PCB just beyond the corrosion.
I just wanted to share this info because there are might be alot of OW riders ot there who have perfectly good batteries and a lightly damaged BMS that might be having the same problem.
The early symprom was OW kick-up and controlled shut down within 3 minutes. IT got progressively worse until the shutdowns happened within seconds. One cell was overcharged upon disassembly and inspection. The OW runs fine with the BMS bypassed.
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Hey @Chibatterysystems…Any solution for a corroded OW+ BMS? Is there an aftermarket BMS that would handle cell balancing even if it does not handle any of the com features?
Thanks pk
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I just paid $800 for 3 bms for the XR and the plus are just as rare.
I think for the plus though you may be able to use a 3rd party bms. I don’t own one tho …
I will soon tho
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Sweet baby Jesus that’s expensive 
Why not just go with a different ESC / BMS combo at that point? 
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I’m prob going to be one of the first people to put a stormcore/ high V esc in a DIY onewheel (using a OW hub/rails)
Not 100% sure about voltage I want yet, 16S-18S would be ok but I might as well go 20S…
20 21700 cells up front and 20 in the back, it normally fits 30 18650 in the back so 20 21700 should fit great.
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With a battery backpack or _____ ?
Ive only ridden a OW once or twice when I went into the city for a group ride… not much space for cells
@Fosterqc not sure if you edited after my post… or if I somehow missed it o.O
Either way sounds cool 
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yeah I was gonna tag u
plenty of room cmon.
Extended rails would be helpful, but expensive.
My current plan is to buy these float plates
Then 3D print a case for it all that would bolt on, hopefully using the original bumpers.
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If I could trust myself on a onewheel capable of that kind of speed. It would be a really tempting build…
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