Inazuma 稲妻: Raceboard Phase Two - RE44 | BNAT | 3-Links | 18s6p | SKP SOLO

I’ve been super busy so I didn’t get a chance to update this thread, but given that I’ve started Phase Two already, I figured I needed to get it up to speed. Several weeks ago, I posted the second part in my series, where I installed the threaded inserts.

For this build, I used the EZlok M4 brass inserts, and they worked alright. As you’ll see in the video, the installation tool was absolute garbage for them, and it broke off the little installation nubs on the two that I tried to use it for. I wish it worked better because it’s certainly easier than using the insert+washer technique, but if it doesn’t work, it doesn’t work.

To drill out the holes for the inserts, I used a 11/32 bit as directed, and this handy 3D printed collet

You can find it here, it worked pretty dang well and was much better than using a piece of blue tape on the drill bit.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3177276z

After drilling out the holes, I mixed up some epoxy, and got to work.

Installing the inserts went pretty smoothly besides breaking the nubs off of two of them, and switching back to my old method.

Next time I will probably try the stainless steel ones, but I didn’t really want to spend like $40 on inserts so I used brass because they worked well for me in the past. In the next post, you’ll see why I regretted it, somewhat.

The next video in the series comes out soon, and I’ll post another update here when it does. Board has been pretty fun so far!

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My prediction is that these inserts easily strip cause they so soft, why… cause that’s what happened to mine. :laughing:

Oooh what epoxy you using there to hold in the inserts? What’s the work time with it?

Lol not quite - easy to mis-thread.

That’s JB-Weld two part. The tube says 4-6 hours set up time, so it’s pretty decent.

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Just published the next part of the video series!

This will be the final part for Phase One, with Phase Two starting off the upgrade process. I’ve been riding this board for quite a few weeks now, and it’s been through a few track sessions. I’m going to make a Phase One riding summary video with a bunch of footage of me ripping it around, but I haven’t started on that yet.

This board is awesome! The tires are the grippiest stuff I’ve ridden so far, I think they are just one step behind the stooge tires. I’m considering upgrading to stooge tires in the future and making some adapters for the boardnamics drives. I will be racing this at Esk8con with the Phase 1.1 setup, which includes the upgraded ESC, but no other changes.

Starting off with the MakerX M100’s, they are incredible little pieces of kit. I RIPPED around on them for all of my track sessions without a single hitch. As I did expect though, they did fall victim to a little bit of overheating. Took about 10 laps midway through the track session to overheat them, and I rode them hard until they hit thermal soft cutoff (85c), in fact that melted a tiny bit of the foam onto one of them inside, which was kind of sketchy.

As for the power, they are impressive! Putting 40 battery amps and 100 motor amps through each of them and they did really well. Even staying on the same battery and upgrading to the SKP solo I didn’t notice much of a difference besides better thermal performance. When I’m able to upgrade the battery to 18s, it’ll be in another realm of power for me, and I’m super excited for that.

The 3 Link trucks are truly like no other. It’s been super cool getting to learn how to ride them, and as I get more comfortable, I’m getting faster. My goal is to truly be up there with the pros and I’m getting some good practice in but I’ve got a long way to go. 3 Links are super predictable once you learn them, allowing you to turn incredibly sharp at lower speeds, and stay stable at high speeds. Another thing that happens with them is that it the resistance to turning gets much higher at high speed, for example, coming into a turn at 20mph vs 10. At 10mph you will not have to apply very much pressure into the deck and trucks to make the turn, but at 20, you have to apply a lot more and lean into it. Of course, this is partly due to the fact that there’s more momentum in your body, but worth mentioning.

I’m not sure if there is a ton else to say at this moment so here are some random pics and stuff

Random, but for anyone that wants dimensions for these wheels, I took one apart.

Here are a couple pics from when I mounted my front binding. I picked what I thought was a good angle, and it seems to have worked out decently well so far. The binding is mounted with through-deck screws. I need to upgrade them to slightly longer ones since they’re barely biting the nylock, but they’ve been working just fine so far. The binding made an immense difference in my ability to corner with the 3 links and really put a lot of weight into it.

Aaaand some more random pics of the board

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Not sure I notice this yet, but still playing around with my setup and then again I’m only currently running the front trucks.

Overall, looking good out there man! Can’t wait to see how 1.1 performs at Esk8Con.

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You know you have a fastboard with grip when you start to recognize “lateral G pushback”

Lateral G pushback increases as the standing deckline is raised from the truck pivot center.

Naturally. Lowering the deckline toward the pivot center will reduce LGP.

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Thanks! Yeah, I didn’t notice it until I really started pushing hard. I’ve been able to ride right on the edge of grip of these tires, which makes me consider upgrading in the future. Also, these tires are 165mm, and I’ll end up going to 18s, which gives an insane top speed, so going down to the smaller brp wheels isnt’ such a bad idea in terms of gearing. More torque, and more grip.

Yep. Brandon mentioned this to me. Part of Phase Two will be drilling holes in the deck for the heim bolts, and dropping them down a bit, Will be cool to see how that affects it

For me, it’s especially noticeable on heelside turns. Really been struggling with those latrely

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There is! @Boardnamics is working on adapters for the HD right now but I’m currently running them on the standard hanger. Been working great after I put red loctite on them

Update coming soon to this thread by the way. New video upgrading to the SKP Solo should be out in a couple weeks

I also kind of want to make a phase one recap to show my experience with the first version of the board

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I saw that, seems like a decent amount of modification was needed. Would be sweet if they were plug and play. Not that much is in this hobby though. I’m fine with open gears to be honest but have friends looking for other options.

I didn’t have to modify it at all haha I just assembled it

The HD adapters should work fine I think, I’d like to see a more keyed solution that prevents rotation besides the jam nut though. That, or a connected tightening collar

Oh thought you had to grind the mounts or something. Havent fully watched those videos yet. Good to hear they worked ok

Nah I had to modify the drives because of the gear ratio I was using, boardnamics made a miscalculation haha

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I’d love to see it done with a split collar on the inner face of the adaptor, similar to what the links attach to.

But I’m stoked to hear that BN is making drives for HDs. I asked about that a while back and was told that they were only available in 10mm but it would be easy to bore and tap them… Easy or not, I’m too lazy for that. :slight_smile:

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Yeah he’s working on an adapter for em. Might literally just be tapping out the old ones tho

@NateW
@dskate
I retapped a handful of 1/2"-20 adapters to the HD 5/8"-18. The assembly isn’t very difficult, and doesn’t require cutting shafts anymore.

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Well well, it’s time for an update. It has been quite some time since I last posted here, and a lot has happened since then. I last posted in March, which was shortly before my ESK8CON performance. In short, it was awesome! Somehow I managed to avoid all of the professional photographers at esk8con, so here’s a couple pictures I took.

Shoutout to @davidbonde for being a cool dude to race with, @sparkospeed for his “thing”, and @fessyfoo for pushing me to go harder. The other david was super cool, and it was nice to finally meet and race against Ron as well.

I’m going to be doing an overview video on the 14s Phase One of this build to provide an idea of what it’s like to ride the first-rev board. In that video I’ll probably have some racing footage as well. I have a super short gopro clip that I captured in one of my heat races, before it promptly decided that it wasn’t tight enough in the mount, and sloped to a useless angle.

Here’s some practice footage that you might find interesting. It’s funny looking back at this because I’ve improved so much since then, so I can’t wait to show off in the future.

So, how did I do? Quite excellent for my first ever race on my board! I was able to place 12th overall fastest qualifying time, and while I got knocked out of my second heat, I placed 17th overall out of everyone in the entire competition (90 racers). I was super happy with my performance, and that I managed to place into the Pro class in my very first race. Now, I think I could have done a lot better, but lack of passing experience bit me hard and not having quite enough confidence in the board didn’t help either. Gunning for at least top 5 next time!

Below is the raw video that I was able to capture during my heat races, and while it’s not really the best I’m sure some people will find it interesting. First heat, my camera decided it was time to point at the deck, so that’s why that one is so short. Right at the beginning, the guy on the Evolve Gremlin (an incredible racer, board, alright) took the inside corner, and I was chasing him the whole time, and wasn’t able to find a good spot to pass. The second heat, @fessyfoo is absolutely running me down, and I got over confident on a corner, slammed the brakes too hard without leaning back, and lost grip, ending up in a hay bale. I didn’t fall, nothing was damaged, and I finished the race, but it really caused me to lose heavy on that one. \

Next race on the schedule is AVS, and that’s a totally different animal to deal with, prompting my transition to Phase Two of this build.

Anyway, I’ve made some progress further into the build, and in fact, this video is actually all recorded before Esk8con. See below, for my process of upgrading to the @Skyart SKP Solo! This ESC is massive, but also comes with massive power!

Installing the Solo was pretty easy, here’s some other pictures from when I was installing it

My experience with the Solo has been pretty good so far, but I did have a couple issues. When setting up the esc, I had the classic vesc issues that we’ve all had experience with. First, I had a couple failed motor setting writes, super weird. Also while configuring, I had some out-of-date firmware notifications, which was weird as well. (this is all on FW6)

I ended up re-writing the bootloaders and re-flashing 6.2 on them. After re-flashing, the motors ended up detecting fine and I was able to write the settings. Here’s what I ended up going with for the race at Esk8con:

Motor amps: 120/-120 each
Battery amps: 40/-15 each

Hoyt Puck on PPM:
Current smart reverse
10% deadband
0.1 pos ramp
0.22 neg ramp
15% expo throttle curve

This setup worked great for me at esk8con, but I’ve grown in my racing ability a lot since then, and have completely maxed out my performance on this setup. By that, I mean thermal throttling.

No surprise there really, I was warned before I did this, that the Solo can get quite hot, and man, does it. I’ve got a large number of logs from our local i2s meetings where I thermal throttle the ESC every 5 laps or so (80-85C). Now, for a race, this is most likely okay, and I didn’t experience these issues at all at esk8con, but I wasn’t able to push nearly as hard then as I do now. Here are some of those logs for your enjoyment:



Since finding out that I needed to cut a massive hole in my enclosure for the heatsink of the Solo, I also decided it was time to upgrade to 18s. Here’s a couple pictures from that process:

I’m still working on the battery build, but the solo is ready to get silicone-d into my enclosure, but I’m waiting until I finish my battery to make sure I don’t have to pop it out again for wire management or something. I’ve got two videos coming up for this build, first one will be my enclosure-cutting experience, and the next will be the massive 18s6p battery build. Artem is going to hook me up with some sweet pre-cut nickel strip for the battery to make the build process a lot faster, and I’m planning to use pre-tinned copper braid for the series connections, which will be a first for me as well. Not necessarily because I need space, but because it’s a ton easier than stripping and soldering 40 10awg cables. I should be able to use only one single braid connection for each series, with 16mm being capable of somewhere around 120a continuous.

Since the Solos can draw 160a, I’ll probably end up going for 2 braid pieces, but probably not entirely necessary since I would only be pulling 160a for a couple seconds as far as I know. Better to overbuild though than have stuff getting hot.

As for other upcoming upgrades, well, I still want to paint everything, but that’s not going to happen for a while, maybe not even till after AVS. Who knows. I also intend to drop the trucks through the deck a bit by drilling out holes for the heim bolts, to bring the deck closer to the axle height.

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Ive recently done this and like it!

Esk8con looked so good. Be cool to meet so many enthusiasts. Maybe one day I’ll make it over.

PS
You should get onto the https://t-raceglobal.com/ time trial challenge too. And anyone else you race with!!!

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Nice! I’m hoping it will help it feel more tight and snappy

I’ll get on trace soon just haven’t had the chance. Seems pretty challenging

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You could safely run down to 3% deadband. I build with 4% deadband and never had an issue.

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Yeah I’ve heard that. I turned it down to only 7 on the new setup so we’ll see how that goes

I don’t need it to be that tight I don’t think

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