Inazuma 稲妻: Raceboard Phase Two - RE44 | BNAT | 3-Links | 18s6p | SKP SOLO

Thanks!

For sure - my first video on it is coming out today, so that would be the easiest to explain.

In short - the HD hangers have a much larger threaded rod section, and the BN adapter attaches onto that threaded portion. Because of this, and the fact that it was designed for the older small one, it will only work with the smaller threaded hanger.

I’m probably going to end up making a custom part to mount them to the new ones, later.

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Waitting in this one!

Wait, gear drives are an option on SRB 3 links? Do you know if by chance, BN M1’s can be adapted for them? 3 links with M1’s and urethane wheels would be amazing haha.

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Bro :joy:

The M1’s are not adaptable since there is no adapter from BN, I suppose it would work if you made a custom adapter, but sounds like a lot of work lol

Besides the BNAT, you can also use the stooge open gears if you like

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I wonder what it would take to get @Boardnamics to make a set of M1’s that can run on 3 links then lol :thinking:

Dont really want open gear drives as i use my board on a college campus with way too much debris, a pebble could end my day in a really unpleasant way :joy:

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A large sum of money might work lol

Gear drives are super loud anyway unless you get 3ds or newbee

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Noise is no big deal haha, just want the reliability and torque capability of gears :joy:

Ive run M1’s for my campus commuter briefly and they were great haha.

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Fair enough haha I agree with that part

I could never ride this board on a campus (without feeling like an asshat), too loud lol

For about $270 you can design your own to try and get it to work :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:, if you reallllly want it.

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Im on a college student budget, the 3 links alone are going to cost me quite a bit :joy:

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If @ShutterShock designs his own adapter to work with the BNATs it miiiight be possible to make it work for both, at which point y’all could share the cost of manufacturing. The more people who are interested, the cheaper it’d make it. $270 Was for me alone to get 4 adapters. But it would require a lot more design work on Ryan’s side.

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I have a set of the M1’s and can do CAD work… so if that makes a difference there’s that lol. Only thing i dont have access to yet is the SRB 3L hanger, and CNC services

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The diameter of the output bearing seat is way bigger on the AT. Same design in concept, but in reality, the execution is completely different. If I were to design both, I’d probably make separate models entirely.

That’s where the $ comes in lol

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Updated first reserved post with a link to my video that came out! Here’s just some more pics as I went through the assembly for the first part!

As I started assembling the drives, I ran into my first issue - the slots for the gears were not big enough. I had already been told this by Kevin when I bought the gears, but since it had been like 6 months since that time, I forgot.

Anyways, I increased the slot sizes by a bit using a dremel with a carbide burr, and it worked pretty well, but it was a bit annoying.

After I dremeled out the slots, I was able to push the motors all the way down, and get the backlash just right. It just so happens that completely bottomed out in the new slot size was correct for the best backlash, which worked out. I used a tiny bit of red loctite on each of the motor screws in order to make sure they never shift.

I realized that they were quite close to the heim bolt, and this actually hasn’t been a problem yet, except that the riptide bushings deflect quite a bit and sometimes get ground down a bit by the ends of the motor cans. Weird. These are 6384 motors, and as demonstrated here, with the BN drives, they are clearly the biggest motors you can use with the 3 links.

If you chose to push the adapter out a little bit and ONLY rely on the Jamnut instead of Jamnut + bottoming out the threads, then you could put them wider apart.

There is some flexibility for what angle you put the drives at, but I found that rear-facing next to the links was going to work out best for me. Forward facing, and the motors / cables would hit either the deck or the enclosure. Any other orientation didn’t work out either. So, as you will see later, the motor-to-ground clearance isn’t incredible, but it has not been an issue as of yet. It’s not like I’m going offroading with this board anyway.

After assembling and picking the angle, they started to look pretty slick on here. Here’s some measurements

You can kind of tell here why having the drives face forward would be a problem. I may decide to flip the rear truck around later, so I can have more adjustability with the links, but that will require a slight extension bracket, since if I flip it around now, the angled link plate crashes into the drop down on the deck.

Did a test fit with the wheels to see how it looked, and I got pretty excited, because these wheels/tires seem awesome!

Nicely fit backlash in there. This was taken right after I realized I had no red-n-tacky to even put on the drives. Running em raw! @poastoast

Looking good! The wire lengths are great for this configuration too, they will gently stick up past the rear edges of the deck in a nice curve. After tightening down the enclosure later, I realized they do get pretty tightly grabbed, but that will be a problem to solve later with some custom panel design.

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Here’s another two pictures of the wheels mounted up. My custom adapters that I created seem to work pretty well and have already survived one track session. They are printed from Polycarbonate at very high strength settings so I would be surprised if they break.

I ended up needing to put 16mm of spacer between the rear side of the wheel, and the drive, including my adapter. I was certain I got it right because I can really crank down the axle nut as required, with no problems. The fasteddy bearings seem really great, but I’m glad I have some extras. The Meepo tubeless wheels though, they come with bearings preinstalled with some pretty serious sticky sealant stuff.

Makes em super annoying to get out, and the adhesive is really hard to clean off anything, don’t really know what it is.

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Dude, this is looking so clean. Can’t wait to hear how it rides.

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Thanks! I’m dragging out the teasing for a while until I can manage to edit something watchable together

Maybe I’ll upload some raw clips here for funsies later

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raw dawgin! :smiling_face_with_three_hearts:

imma spoil it

:crazy_face:

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Haha yeah mine sounds a tad different since it’s 2 versus 4, but that’s pretty close.

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