Now day two after the fact I actually feel some neck pain too.
Pads are definitely a skin saver and I think they help a little too with bone breaks. Instead of a sudden stop when falling you tend to slide it out a lot more and the pads help with dampening the impact.
Agreed, man. The value in these these hard shell armours is more in helping you slide off the momentum than it is in protecting against abrasion (which they also do admirably). I just can’t bring myself to go full RoboCop though.
Maybe I might if I’d had a short injury as bad as yours though.
I’m using the Maytech R2, which is more of a handful, but that jazz just doesn’t work for me anyway. I want the puck in my hand, not on my wrist.
Edit: Fwiw, I use Flexmeter wrist guards which have a small plate-thing in that area. That’s useful for skidding off a bail (on-topic) but not the whole reason why I want slide gloves.
I wear my pucks with remote fine, nano-X. I do need a new remote soon though, but it fits well with my remote hand puck slid down a bit towards my lower palm.
I keep my remote on a retractable lanyard attached to my waist so that if I drop it during a fall I don’t have to worry about holding it or smashing it, and since (you’re right…) remote grip is not 100% ideal with pucks, it’s nice to be able to drop/let go of it whenever. But, the benefits of setting up pucks to at least work reasonably well with your remote imo far outweigh the small lack of convenience + lack of pucks.
There are pucks out there designed for use with remotes. I’ll link it when I find it.
If you are too cheap for $9 + slide gloves from a mall skate shop, especially if you already have a jigsaw, cutting board, gloves and a blow torch, you can cut your own pucks (this is what I do) shaped to fit your remote/hand perfectly. Just trace the pucks you want on the cutting board, jigsaw the pucks out, melt the top layer a bit goopy with a blow torch, put your gloves on, and press gloves into melted pucks (make sure placement is exactly where you want it, and press pretty hard- it should form around the contours of your palms a bit making it comfortable!), take off gloves [HOT] and let it cool. When melting the pucks, since they like to warp depending on the thickness of your cutting board, I like to start heating from the edges first to the middle at the end- this seems to help minimize warping when melting the top of the pucks. In total, like $15 minutes of work and free if you already have the supplies.
do people here mostly use soft knee pads? (foam, g-forms, etc) or hard knee pads (that can slide out)?
I use hard kneepads for when I used to downhill longboard (non-electric)
And soft for esk8 because my board goes 40km/h tops. And because its more convenient for a>b travel
Soft (POC VPD2). Wish I’d had the sense to go hard (POC VPD2 DH), but wonder if I’d wear them so religiously if I had (see earlier RoboCop reference).
@Vanarian: I’m trigger-throttle with thumb-brake. Ground pat should be dead-zone.
Is what you have in mind something along these lines? Cos that’s what I’ve got in mind
If I could afford the POC VPD2s I’d get them, but I cheaped out and got the G-forms instead. Love POC, at least that’s what I use to protect my head, a Crane MIPS lid.
For me pads are insurance, and to avoid the Robocop / Power Rangers look, I’ll always go with something I can wear under my day clothes.
I have been wearing Hard knees up until recently. I had a stack in Paris and fucked my knee up good because the pad got pushed down in the fall so I have swapped to Leatt 3df soft pads and I am in love. Haven’t stacked it with them yet but its only a matter of time
These feel really good padding wise and position wise but are pretty damn bulky. They also force you to keep your knees in a bent position.
I wanted them but the forcing of position put me off as well as the size of it.
If that’s not a let down for you then they are a good choice.
I chose to go with a pair of triple eight street knee pads. They’re okay and less bulky and don’t really force your knee to bend.