I need help please

My vote is for 63/37 (leaded) with high RMA-type flux percentage, Kester brand preferably.

Lower melting point and instant transition from solid to liquid and back again. No “pasty” phase in between solid/liquid like 60/40 has.

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this is what I got

Idk what else to say, this is simply not true. :smiley: You just press until the pliers stop clicking, and you have a perfect connection every time. That’s also why it’s much preferred in the industry, you can use unskilled labour to do it.

Also please don’t solder JST connectors, I’m cringing just thinking about that. :laughing:

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For sure. I was most upset the other day when i couldn’t crimp my sensor wires cos they were too small and had to resort to chopping the small wires shorter and replacing them with crimpable wires.

Never crossed my mind to just solder the terminals on :rofl:

I love crimps

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The problem with crimps is most DiYers for some reason are broke cheapasses and won’t even buy a crimp tool that’s only $20-$40.

Of course there are connector systems where the crimp tool is $500, which is kind of bullshit, but understandable why someone wouldn’t want to shell out that much cash for such a specific tool.

Obviously the crimp is going to be bad if you try to use the $5 harbor freight wire STRIPPERS

Or don’t know what you’re doing and overcrimp in an arbor press.

A good solder joint will fail before a good crimp

A bad solder joint will fail pretty quickly, but not before a bad crimp.

The average solder joint is better than the average crimp because people either don’t bother to learn how to crimp or won’t pay for the ratcheting crimping tool.

Don’t solder a crimp, it makes the joint inflexible and brittle.

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image

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Crick crack motherfucker

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Fuckit rosco. Now i want crimpys

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how would I connect my series connection with a crimp

Use solder :rofl:

Crimping is used when you are connecting a metal pin or receptacle to a wire before inserting it into a connector housing.

You wouldn’t be able to easily crimp your nickel tabs together to create a series connection.

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ok thanks for info

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@ceasium dont try this im just curious.
@Battery_Mooch would crimped(or soldered, really doesnt matter for what im getting at) bullet connections be at all a viable way to make a modular pack? assuming you have, lets say, 3-4p groups pre-welded, could you use small bullets for the bms and larger ones to connect the groups in series without much risk? could be cool to just have a bunch of bricks you click together in configurations from lets say 8-20s as space allows.
it would also allow for very easy swapping out of a damaged p group.

@poastoast didn’t u made something like this?
im tagging @glyphiks in here, i think u also did something similar?

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from a sales standpoint, imo, it would be wonderful. you just order a shit load of cells, weld them all, prep them with bulleted wires, and click em together as needed for clients. and, if their pack goes bad at all down the line, repairs would be as simple as “buy a multimeter, match voltages, and replace the fucked group,” which would make battery repair an end user manageable situation.
coughcough @Skyart @TheRef coughcough

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do you mean like these that hoyt makes?

wont you run in to the problem with the new cells and the old cell having different voltages. (like you have when mixing old cells and new cells in a pack)

i dont know, im not that knowledgeable on batteries at all.

Absolutely! Assuming good bullets that are well connected, blah, blah…
It adds cost and increased size though, two things most folks hate to accept. :grin:

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This is certainly a concern.
The modules would either need to be electronically protected or near the same voltage when connected.

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