fuck it, just pot the entire enclosure in thermal paste.
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Oh and also, lead free solder creaters stronger joints, because lead free solder is harder. 
I use the same brand but 60/40 it’s good stuff. I’ll have to say I do enjoy the smell (maybe I’m weird)
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FTFY. Hardness is something I would not want in something subject to intense vibration, such as on a board. Case in point, the solder breaking issue on the V1 uBoxes.
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/14686996.2019.1640072
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Yup, can be an issue if not accounted for. That being said, this problem exists in lead solder aswell, and is a good argument for why crimp connections are superior in every way and why we all should make the switch.
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fuck crimping
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no wonder I’ve lost a few IQ points after esk8ing and building shit.
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??? why though, its objectively better.
That hardness is a problem though with boards that undergo thermal cycling. The CTE (how much it expands with heat) is lower than leaded solder and the circuit board material. The extra hardness of lead-free solder puts more strain on soldered joints, and especially no-lead components, than softer leaded solder.
Leaded solder is better to use when components and/or the board is being heated up and cooled down a lot, like AS switches and ESC’s.
I want to be clear here, I am ONLY talking about the reliability of the solder joint and circuit board assembly.
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As can be said for any conversation about safety.
But that wasn’t part of what we two were discussing. There’s always a larger picture. 
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this forum is the only place ive ever been where being a mooch is a good thing.
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Crimped connections can be better than soldered connections but only if they are done properly. And very, verrrrry few people can do that or even have the proper tools to do so.
In practical use, soldered connections are easier to get mostly right compared to crimped connections and are easier to teach people how to do. Saying they need to buy at least two expensive crimpers (for logic and power connections) just doesn’t work very well for most people.
Sure, I’m all for getting everyone to use only proper crimped connections. But IMO it’s just not practical for the DIY communities.
A side note for others reading this…a crimped and soldered connection is just a soldered connection and is subject to all the metal fatigue, material safety, etc., issues that an only-soldered connection has. Potentially, it could be a slightly lower resistance connection but that’s not guaranteed.
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Yeah, and I don’t want to lean to much out of my comfort zone because I don’t know that much about this topic, but as I already said, this also applies to leaded solder. Which is why I’m alwas happy to advocate for crimp connections where applicable. 
I have to disagree here. Crimping with the right tool is very much easier to get right than soldering, simply because there are way less variables and personal skill involved. And also, crimping tools are not that expensice. JST crimp pliers cost 10$ on ebay, and those are more than enough. And a big crimper for up to 0AWG wire costs 35$. And with those tools you are set, you don’t need any more, they produce way more reliable and reproducable results than soldering, and on top of than are even cheaper than what most people pay for soldering irons.
Yeah, do not mix crimps and solder. A crimp is a solid copper connection, solder just adds resistance. Tagging @Gamer43 here, he has even better arguments for crimping. 
I wouldn’t start thinking about that until you know for sure that the heat isn’t spreading effectively across your heatsink. All the good intentions in the world don’t mean much if the execution is flawed and I’d say at least the first example above probably underperforms a standard heatsink because the total surface area and thermal mass aren’t super high. If you try a heatsink and realize the heat isn’t spreading effectively enough that the entire heatsink is being utilized well, then you start considering things like heat pipes. Until you have a problem with the heat not spreading well enough a heat pipe doesn’t help you. Also, they aren’t good heatsinks by themselves. They’re good at transferring heat to other parts of a heatsink. Surface area and mass are the two main factors though. I’d think with an eskate mass would actually be a big factor because a lot of the heat will likely come in bursts. I don’t have enough experience to know for sure though.
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I disagree. It can be better. A perfectly executed lab-grade crimp is absolutely better than a perfectly executed lab-grade solder.
But this is the real world. It’s difficult to do a perfect crimp and soldering is much more forgiving. Anything but a perfect crimp with the perfect tools and perfect size wire and perfect procedure, is going to probably be worse than an at-home solder connection, especially in a high-vibration environment.
I feel like almost any solder joint a DIY-er makes at home will be better than almost any crimp joint a DIY-er makes at home.
This is also why you see so many crimps in automobiles, and they have expensive tools and robots making those connections en masse.
edit: whoops, I was ninja’d by Mooch who explained it better
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I even solder my JST connectors on 
- Lead solder 60/40
- Lead-free solder
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Aw man no love for 63 37 eutectic stuff? 
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any solder will work. lead solder will be easier.
experimental heat sinks might work, might be a waste of money. ride the 6.7, and get a good, dual vesc, with a proper, purpose built, heatsink later, if youre unhappy with the amount of power you can safely run through the 6.7.
that seems fair.
side point I am running a single 6374 setup