Basically I need to pick a new deck and I not sure which to choose. It has to be one of these blank longboard decks and skateboard decks all shapes Blank Longboard Decks and Skateboard Supply
Can always put the xt90-s boardside and have the regular xt90 as the key. Definitely cheaper to make a bunch of keys and safer too.
2 Likes
b- but if the resistor in the xt90s pop, then its gonna be a complete teardown to service instead of just grabbing another one 
3 Likes
Oh i agree. I use the xt90-s as the key. Just outlining options.
1 Like
That’s an option too, yes. I ran my mtb with xt90 as the key for a while but it wasn’t worth the time it took to undo my then 3d printed holder with the xt90s that was screwed down and hotglued the hell out of. So i switched to xt90s as the key.
The antispark function of an XT90S prevents that connector from sparking on insertion. It does nothing to prevent a spark occurring somewhere else in the circuit, because it doesn’t affect the circuit in some holistically spark preventing way, it just handles its own insertion differently. The key makes and breaks the connection, so it needs to be the one with the XT90S
Eskate sparks occur when a large current jumps across a small distance at the moment a connector is inserted, or just before it if the spark jumps the gap. This happens because the ESC has input capacitors that draw huge currents to charge up, if that current is available. Eskate batteries can temporarily supply that huge current, and our connectors are quite low resistance so there’s nothing to limit the current. Antispark connectors work by making the connection in two stages instead of being all or nothing. The first stage has resistance, around 5.6 ohms I think, so the initial current is limited to something muuuch smaller. The next stage is the normal low resistance connection. The stages are handled mechanically, you don’t need to do anything differently or practice inserting correctly. The first stage is a little contact ring in the connector that gets pushed past fairly quickly, it only needs to provide resistance for that split second at the start when the spark happens anyway
Edit: just saw the comments above from frame and glyphiks; I’m not contradicting them, the XT90S can be on the board side and have a male XT90 as the key, but the XT90S has to be involved in making and breaking the key connection and not just buried elsewhere in the board. I can make a little video explanation if this is unclear
4 Likes
What type of sensor does thr fs motors use. When I ran my motor detection it said sensorless.
Flipsky esk8 motors use hall sensors.
1 Like
If your ESC has a switch to change between motor voltages, make sure it’s at 5V for flipsky motors
You need to reupload that file.
1 Like
I’ll have to do it tomorrow. It was my motor making a high pitch screeching noice when it reaches max speed.
If it’s not a mechanical noise, you can play with the switching frequency and see if that helps.
Motor → FOC → Advanced → Switching frequency
Rough range on 100-200kv motors (I’ve tested on a VESC 6)
with Sample in V0 and V7 set to true, 15-25 khz
with Sample in V0 and V7 set to false, 15-40 khz
Thanks Ill try that later. Other then noise what else does it do( like draw backs)?
Where is a good place to get griptape. I still have to work on the aesthetics of my board. But I dont have time for that so for the time being I want to put some grip tape on so I can ride.
Grab up a roll of vicious griptape and I’ll teach you how to skin and frit next time you up in pbc \m/
Bet
1 Like
For some reason when I turn on my board ( plug in the loopkey) the motor spins backwards. When unplug the the key and plug it back in it goes back to normal.
1 Like
What???
I need to know more now.
Check the connection to your remote receiver
2 Likes
What remote are you using? Did you configure its failsafe mode? Is it spinning backwards right when you plug the loopkey in, or are you saying when you use your remote to control the board the direction is reversed? 