Lipo or not?
I prefer these
If you mean minimum voltage before the cells start becoming damaged and/or dangerous, then 2.5V per cell and probably a lot higher for lipo. DON’T USE 2.5V for ESC cutoff settings. You will junk your battery.
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Thank you. The reason I asked was because right now I am waiting for the last part ( I think it got lost in the mail at this point) to make my loop key and I have my battery plugged in to my vesc. I am monitoring my voltage to make sure its not going too low and I just wanted to double check what too low actually is.
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Assuming a balanced pack, you can run motors down to those “cutoff end” numbers. You can idle the ESC and communicate with it until the lowest cell hits 2.5V, which may not be when the (10S) pack gets down to 25V, it may be sooner than that.
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I am thinking getting (Yaohappy 5Pairs XT90E-M+XT90 Mountable Male Female Durable Plug Connector for RC Model Multicopter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DBK97VJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5YJMCA2C8P69DZWDCT6C)
Would this be fine
Loop key should be XT90-S and VESC to battery can be just an XT90
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↑↑↑
Key = XT90S
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Ok thanks
Basically I need to pick a new deck and I not sure which to choose. It has to be one of these blank longboard decks and skateboard decks all shapes Blank Longboard Decks and Skateboard Supply
Can always put the xt90-s boardside and have the regular xt90 as the key. Definitely cheaper to make a bunch of keys and safer too.
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b- but if the resistor in the xt90s pop, then its gonna be a complete teardown to service instead of just grabbing another one 
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Oh i agree. I use the xt90-s as the key. Just outlining options.
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That’s an option too, yes. I ran my mtb with xt90 as the key for a while but it wasn’t worth the time it took to undo my then 3d printed holder with the xt90s that was screwed down and hotglued the hell out of. So i switched to xt90s as the key.
The antispark function of an XT90S prevents that connector from sparking on insertion. It does nothing to prevent a spark occurring somewhere else in the circuit, because it doesn’t affect the circuit in some holistically spark preventing way, it just handles its own insertion differently. The key makes and breaks the connection, so it needs to be the one with the XT90S
Eskate sparks occur when a large current jumps across a small distance at the moment a connector is inserted, or just before it if the spark jumps the gap. This happens because the ESC has input capacitors that draw huge currents to charge up, if that current is available. Eskate batteries can temporarily supply that huge current, and our connectors are quite low resistance so there’s nothing to limit the current. Antispark connectors work by making the connection in two stages instead of being all or nothing. The first stage has resistance, around 5.6 ohms I think, so the initial current is limited to something muuuch smaller. The next stage is the normal low resistance connection. The stages are handled mechanically, you don’t need to do anything differently or practice inserting correctly. The first stage is a little contact ring in the connector that gets pushed past fairly quickly, it only needs to provide resistance for that split second at the start when the spark happens anyway
Edit: just saw the comments above from frame and glyphiks; I’m not contradicting them, the XT90S can be on the board side and have a male XT90 as the key, but the XT90S has to be involved in making and breaking the key connection and not just buried elsewhere in the board. I can make a little video explanation if this is unclear
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What type of sensor does thr fs motors use. When I ran my motor detection it said sensorless.
Flipsky esk8 motors use hall sensors.
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If your ESC has a switch to change between motor voltages, make sure it’s at 5V for flipsky motors
You need to reupload that file.
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I’ll have to do it tomorrow. It was my motor making a high pitch screeching noice when it reaches max speed.