Depends how fast you are
just for the soldering?
Oh, yeah I should probably read.
2-3 hours if you’re gonna take it slow and make sure everything is alright
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also if people can send pictures of 10s4p or any thing of the like, just as a frame of reference
Ok that make more scene other wise I would have to do it over several weeks.
SSSSSSSSSSPPPP
Look here
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what do I even search, I never get what I am looking for, I suck at searching.
I will literally never do this… I would rather pay shipping both ways…
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Very very excessive
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Will it allow me to pull more amps on my vesc?
as a side point it does add to the design of the board.
maybe, u can do openloop to test how long until the esc thermal throttle
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whats that?
How thick is the base of that heat sink? That’s the part that will need to spread the heat out. Otherwise all the heat pretty well stays near the heat source and keeps the temperature up.
Those fins are spaced out for forced-air (fan) cooling and not convection (still air) installations. Will the fins be exposed to outside air or will they be inside the enclosure?
That thermal pad is verrrry thick and is a great insulator, not letting much heat through in spite of it being called a thermal pad. Can you get a much thinner one or use double-sided thermal tape or Kapton?
2mm
I plan on mounting it outside the enclose
the one I have is 1mm but they make a .5mm one also. but I would like to found out more about the other options you mentioned.
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also it is a high quality thermal pad, the idea was because the flip sky has heat sink on it already the thermal pad would be able to get in the grooves and give me a higher surface area.
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That is too thin to be using a heat sink that large for such a small heat source. Heat sinks like that are made for “distributed heat sources” where the heat is spread out over the entire heat sink and can go directly to the fins.
I don’t think the heat will go (effectively) much beyond 25mm or so past the ESC. In my opinion you can cut the blue heat sink in half and barely affect the cooling it will be able to do for you.
Wait…you’re using that pad and blue heat sink on the FlipSky heat sink?
That will be a very inefficient way to get the heat out of the ESC and will result in higher temperatures than removing the FlipSky heat sink and using a thinner pad and 1/2 of your blue sink directly on the hot components of the ESC.
IMO the tiny bit of extra surface area (using a thicker pad onto the FlipSky sink) will have no benefit compared to the lower heat transfer you get using a thicker pad. No matter how good the thermal pad is it is still much, MUCH worse than direct contact.
That pad is basically rubber, a great insulator. Sure, it’s got stuff in it to help with heat transfer but it’s still rubber and a (comparatively) lousy heat conductor.
Lastly, don’t expect miracles for any heat sink arrangement as that ESC was not designed for good thermal transfer to a heat sink. No matter how great the setup you add the ESC just won’t shed a ton of heat. What you’re doing is a heck of a lot better than nothing though! 
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Search for thermal tape (Digi-Key, Newark) and look double-sided adhesive versions with a decently high-temperature rated (at least 100°C) carrier layer (polymide/Kapton/polyester). Many are only 0.1mm thick or so, fantastic at transferring heat compared to a thick pad.
Because the tape is so thin though your surfaces must be smooth and free of metal burrs. If you cannot ensure this then use the 0.5mm pad directly on the ESC’s components (remove the FlipSky’s heat sink).
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