Hummie hubs Kickstarter

Powell triple wide wheel is all they said.

Guess maybe it will come out someday…

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Linny,

Mind covering how you went about sanding/prepping/painting yours in detail for the rest of us who aren’t so well versed in the process? I’d like to do the same with mine, but I’m curious if you took it apart to sand stuff, what tools/grits you used to get things smooth, and how you masked things up nicely for painting.

So, i didn’t remove the hubs from the hangar, i masking taped the entirety of the wheel as well as the areas near the bearing, so i slipped masking tape under the shoulders of the hangar. I used a random orbit sander to sand the heatsink part of the hangar, but the areas where the curves are and the wires, i hand sanded and used files. If you’re gonna paint it, sand it up to 400 grit, any smoother than that, and the paint won’t adhere properly.

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Anybody else received and /or tried them?? :grin:

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Lol he said they were pallet jack wheels :rofl:

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explains why the core is so large, when the tread fails it can still roll.

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Hi John , when Europeans can expect to receive their hubs? Regards

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What amps should I be setting these bad boys too in the vesc tool?

I’m taking a break and finishing this electric bike because I ride like 12 miles each way to work and need a break. My electric bikes were all sold. Whatever, give me another 2 weeks max and then will get them done that next week.

@Coreywolf hopefully u tell me. In my experience I’ve had motors up to 100 amp settings but surely saturates at that point and less efficient

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I ran my v4s at 90a and they got a little too warm for my liking. I was pretty comfortable at 80a from memory.

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With their size and low kv they probably start saturating as low as 60-70amps. They’ll put out more torque with more amps but with a lot of heat

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Are there instructions somewhere on how to take these apart, change hubs and tyres stuff like that?

Pretty easy. Just have to be careful of the phase wires.

There’s the bolt on the axle that needs to be unscrewed and then u likely will be able to pull the motor off

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Are the bolt threads loctited?

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Some. Some not. Some thermally conductive paste. Worth adding some threadlocker.

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Okay that’s worthy info to let us know about, wouldn’t want another TBDD situation happening again

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Yea if your motors are moving along the axle at all you need to clamp them down and probably use threadlocker too. The bolt holding them on are long at least and you’re sure to notice before the motor comes off. But that would be a disaster. Check the bolts and add threadlocker if you find they’re not tight.

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There’s not much to the design and pretty simple to replace tires. Remove the side plate and slide them off, although they’re tight on there and maybe you’ll need a press.

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Just learn to fall bro

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Does anyone have extras ?

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