Not sure if I understood this correctly but the PPM values of the puck are not symmetric. max is 2ms, min is 1.2ms and neutral is 1.5ms. If you are setting your PPM values at max 2ms, neutral 1.5, min 1; I could see how you would get this problem.
I completely forgot about this but I need to make sure that anyone reading this knows that @JJHoyt sent me a new remote and reciever when mine was lost in the mail. He even had it engraved again. What a bro.
If you have a puck and haven’t reflowed your pot solder joints yet - definitely do it asap.
Mine tried to kill me yesterday with random brake/reverse signals at full speed
I think getting a bunch of likes on this post recently, just wanted to say that when I showed up to carve PDX with another remote having the same issues, Pete from Hoyt soldered up a fix on the spot.
New pucks have a couple of changes that help reduce the chance of this happening.
Anecdotal warning: Ive seen plenty of failed puck pots locally. None of them were epoxied.
The one that was epoxied(mine) has been smashed and crashed heeps, to the point of fishing everything out of the adjacent waist tall grass after stack. It’s missing partial resistors and hasn’t skipped a beat otherr than no charge indicator lights(blank but goes green when full).
The local failures have been a healthy mix of pot leg failures and internal pot failures so while epoxy helps heaps, the pot can still go bad.
@xsynatic please move everything from post 109 and onward (including this post), to the thread linked below. All the flagged posts are off topic, but it is a valuable conversation about battle hardening and potentiometers.