Are you controlling speed or current with the pedal? Try controlling current.
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Controlling current. Idk what why it takes off like that. I’ll figure it out later I’m sure.
I kinda fixed the issue by making the pedal more sensitive, so I can control it with more precision rather than needing to put any real weight on it.
But doing so is causing cogging, it’s happening at low speeds because the hall sensor cable that came with the ESC broke. I’m waiting on the replacement cable, should solve the cogging. It’s keeping me from being able to test the board at all at this point.
If you can’t figure it out you could always just turn your board sideways when leaving it on a hill.
Why are you leaving your board on a hill anyways? lol
I actually already have parking brakes figured out with code above. This is probably confusing because I forgot to go post my updates on the right thread, which is making my skateboard work without a remote, but a pedal instead.
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Have you tried setting the positive ramping time higher?
Yea, nothing really seems to make a difference. The board will literally take off and I’ll have no choice but to let it fly off without me. Making the pedal more sensitive so I could press slowly and with precision was the only solution so far.
I’m sure this is just annoying for everyone to hear about this at this point, but here’s my update.
I fixed the Hall Sensor cable so it would stop cogging since the replacement cable will take forever to get here. The main issue stopping me is that the throttle curves do nothing. The ramping time have no effect either in current mode. However, the ramp time DOES work when in Duty Cycle mode.
Switched it to duty cycle, tested out a few ramp times, and it was awfully ridable after getting use to it. Since there’s a ramp time, adjust foot positioning and such doesn’t suddenly jolt you. It was a little difficult turning, but I didn’t do too badly and suspect it’ll be a lot easier once the foot strap is on.
Only real issues are figuring out why current control won’t play nice with ramp time/speed curves, figure out how viable this pedal really is, and this stupid issue where the weight sensor will think there’s weight on it when there isn’t.
The weight sensor will sometimes just decrease its output as if there’s weight when there isn’t - I suspect a bad PCB. I have plenty of extras I can wire up to see if the issue goes away.
I’m also not tied down to the idea of the weight sensor, I’ll test it out for a few days with the foot strap and see how well I can do.
And figuring out why ramp time and curves don’t affect current is the most important. Duty cycle is working, but when off-roading it could suddenly take in amperage to overcome obstacles and jolt me.
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This is not annoying at all. It is cool and fascinating 
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Have you tried using the PID control method?
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I believe that’s similar to duty cycle in that it’ll take in amperage to overcome obstacles so I haven’t tried it.
Ah yeah I agree with that statement
Derailing question, how do you know if a VESC is 4 or 6 if it doesn’t say? Is VESC 6 more reliable?
My VESC Flipsky 75100 doesn’t say and neither does this VESC I was looking at getting:
This is my go to thread on esc info
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Thanks for that.
@jaykup Is a beast, so much information!
I guess that means that the 75100 is VESC6 with modifications, so if I bought a remote it would be for VESC6?
I found a Flipsky remote/receiver for $40. It’ll take forever to get here though.
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Tons of folks (myself included) have several remotes lying around and would love to send you one for the price of shipping 
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That’s sweet 
But I’d feel bad honestly.
The dust bunnies won’t miss it too much. I have a few lying around that I will literally never use again. Plus, I have a good feeling about you in my heart of hearts.
Let me check and see.
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That makes one of us.
If you’re sure I can Venmo, Cashapp, or Zelle you. Any ol’ remote will do, just needs a receiver too and I have no idea if my 75100 takes a VESC4 or VESC6 receiver.
No worries though if you don’t have anything
“VESC 6” receiver. The difference just the tx and rx wires are flipped between the v4 and v6 on the uart port, so either will work if you flip the wires.
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