I can’t confirm, I might be wrong. It was a comment I feel ashamed of now 
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I just never thought they intentionally connected the heatsink to the negative pole. That means there is only the thermal pad as isolator to the upper fets. And seeing people reusing torn thermal pads makes me worried in that case.
This is something you almost always want to do though, as long as the case will not touch something at above ground voltage.
It prevents the heat sink from acting as an antenna, either pulling in or emitting electrical interference.
They definitely shouldn’t do that. 
But we should not leave the heat sink floating because we’re worried about this for an even more important reason…
Grounding the heat sink forces the main fuse (there better be one!) to blow in case one of the FETs shorts to the heat sink. If the sink is not grounded then the heat sink could stay at pack voltage (via the FET) and either be a shock hazard to someone or short-circuit to something else in the enclosure.
It all makes very much sense when you put it this way. Thank you @Battery_Mooch for explaining 
My mind plays tricks on me because I mix different HW versions together.
For example the pcb in the mini focs I use are sandwiched between two alu shells screwed together. Pcb not grounded to the aluminum.
I have opened and repair many escs and they all are different… It’s what I find fascinating in this hobby🥰 the different approaches, good or bad.
As long as it isn’t overheating, keep pulling those amps! A heat sink could help if/when you get to that point.
Im on a prebuild Lonestar supersport but it looks like the stormcore is mounted to what i think is a heatsink. It just dumps heat, im in canada so even in summer the outside temps only hit 25-30C; but im hitting 40-50C max MOS temps in 5-10C weather, but again it just dumps heat even while riding.
Is there an Android UI for the Stormcore? Or is it Apple only?
Freesk8 app will work with stormcore
Android uses vesctool app or freesk8 app
Also the official VESC app works with stormcore too.
Im unsure if it has a main fuse?
The heat sinks definitely do not touch the fets directly, only through a thermal pad. The screws that hold everything together runs through the PCB Holes which are a ground plane. And there is a middle screw holding the PCB on the aluminium casing.
Any ideas where the main fuse would be?
Ideally, somewhere between the pack and anything else.
I was just talking conceptually though. If the pack had a main fuse then it would blow. Some packs are not fused.
Ah you mean a inline fuse for the battery. All good. I thought you meant a PCB fuse in the ESC.
There might be one there, still acting as the main fuse, if it’s “between” the battery pack and the ESC’s circuitry.
If anyone is curious, I ended up putting in an order for the Apex Predator, and will make a DIY street board from the beginning at some point 
The Verreal is going to be taken apart for spare parts.
Hell of an upgrade, dude. Congrats!
Thank you, im super excited for it! I have never ridden anything but Verreal except from countless longboards and other manual boards.
Congrats! The Predator is a completely different world. Expect to take a little bit of time to get used to the bindings
Yea absolutely! Its been a childhood dream of mine to have some fort of board that would allow me to jump while riding it. Amazing to finally let it become reality!
According to this there’s only one ESC that’s good to 13s without using one rated for 16s, and that’s the Maker-X D60 witch seems to have hardware and firmware issues, is there no “12s rated” VESC I can use for 13s without getting one rated for 16s?
Don’t charge to full / don’t do harsh braking on a full battery and you can do 13s on any reliable 12s ESC pretty much. Even a unity could handle it, not that I’d recommend one.