SK3 149kv dual use been running strong since Dec 2018 & I daily commute with my board everyday
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I noticed that the keda motors where discontinued in the U.S. sad because I wanted to order a pair.
i run dual sk8 6374’s at 192kv on og focboxs. They run at 95a motor amps each and they’re bloody weapons. they’re just a bit annoying when it comes to the whole “pulley acts as the circlip” thing. apart from that they sound awesome, run beautifully and dont get too hot either.
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The early ones had issues. Trust me I know and had a part in the upgrading. Hobbyking are one of the best vendors for acting on feedback and with their buying power can ensure that the qc is done properly. I have 4 of the 192’s from when they first hit the site and 2 were problematic. Bad bearings and bad sensor pcbs. Had some fairly extensive back and forths and the new ones are flawless. Cost me nothing and they even took care of the shipping. I actually have 6 of these things but two are fucked. They didn’t even pull the send the old ones back so we can check them out(throw them in the bin but make you think we are on it) trick
Good motors. Good company.
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I’m a C’hair away from 192s x4. Had 2 in past. Only bad things I can are, why not black, the shaft is too long. (Obligatory “that’s what she said”… In That order)
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Got one SK3 6374 192kv coming loose during my morning commute.
This is now after removing it from the board. It seem like 1 bolt broke off, two were stripped.
I thought these were tanks, these 3 M3 bolts seem like holding all the weight (with support of the tiny shaft bearing)
Anyone else encountered similar issue?
Known remedies?
I was thinking of rethreading the holes with maybe M4 and find 3 new suitable bolts.
Any reason this won’t work?
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I will answer in here too for consistency. Those 3 bolts are usually the ones that come loose because of badly or non existent (as in your case by the looks of it) threadlocker.
If they come loose and you don’t notice then they strip or snap as you have discovered. I have 4 sets of these running on various stuff and they have been for me the most reliable motor so far if you just do a little Q&A on them first. This has only happened to me once and one bolt snapped. No stripping so no need for rethreading the holes but I see no reason why you can’t upsize the bolts if you have the meat.
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Curiosity got the better of me and I just did some checking. My oldest set and the ones that obviously the most reliable so far have philips bolts on the front plate. Still m3 but with a much more tactile bolt head. Never had an issue with these 2. Probably nearly 2 years old and getting some pitting on the chrome to prove it. Got a group buy set with sensors that have allen heads and one other set that are 6 months old that have philips. The newest ones from hobby king are in a gear drive set up and I am not messing with those to check because lazy.
Strange how those kind of inconsistencies occur with Chinese manufacturing. The ones from the factory direct though were all loose including the axle grubs.
My conclusions;
Chinese factories adapt to whatever they have in stock at the time of assembly
Hobbyking buy shitloads so get the good Q&A 1 in 10
Buy direct and you get the bad Q&A 1 in 500
That still means that out of 10 motors from HK 9 need your input.
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Only had my Sk3 149kv for a month, but the they have been great so far. Crazy torque, but with any include they stall. Was going to try this:
Awesome! Has anyone here add hall sensors? I wanted to get the sk3 motors but haven’t because I wanted sensored. This looks like a viable option.
This one is sensored
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I know but I don’t like the look and it is less power ful at low kv.
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SK8 are more powerful than sk3 at the same kv. They just are. They look like shit though in royal blue??? Wtf? Takes a few minutes of your life to remove the cans and paint them whatever colour takes you fancy. I did a black set with a permanent marker. Next time I will wire brush them and get a raw set. Diy bro.
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Well from the spec sheet it says its less powerful so idk 
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Think you’ll find the sk8 rate higher on the spec sheet than sk3.
Take no bloody notice of spec sheets where motors are concerned. They make them up as they go along.
I have dismantled both sk3 and sk8 and they share a lot of components and design and the windings look similar but the actual on the street truth is that you get more from the sk8
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yes.
thanks for the inspiration!
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You could hand paint them black so you don’t have do a full strip down. Then spin them up with some fine grit paper and take the ridges to raw. Black and silver. Do it.
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SK3 149KV, in use for 3 years through rain, dirt and snow. Mainly offroad usage.
Total KM around 4000. Never cleaned. The bell is starting to rust a little bit now 
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I’m trying to decide between the sk8 and the torqueboard 6374 equivalent.
It’s kind of dusty in my area so sealed motors would be nice, although my sk3’s haven’t had any problems so far in the last two years. A friend of mine has had sk8’s for about half a year and is pretty happy with them.
Is it worth saving money and getting the sk8 or are the torqueboard’s more reliable in the long run?
Has anyone ever tried sealing an sk3?
Sk3s are fine no motor is actually sealed they all have a gap where the can spin