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do NOT use WD40 on the bearings!
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Correct. Just washes anything good in the bearing out. Best practice is to repack a bearing but requires seal removal(if present).
I would use a skate bearing oil and slather a few drops on the outside and try to let it seep in if you can’t remove the shield.
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Saw the wd40 reference from a linked/quoted post and came here to say the exact same thing…
Although there is a wd40 branded lithium lubricant…
ok noted - it’s the big bearing with metal seal, I could not remove the bearing so went with wd40 for now, I’m expecting a replacement motor anyways, and I also ordered 10 of those bearings which should arrive sometime in 2045 
when I get them I replace all big bearings, they are too loud.
After we told you not to use wd40? Bruh why 🥲
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nah man, b4, right b4, was done right after my post and had already used it - but again, the bearing will be replaced anyways by a new one
WD40 not only is not a lubricant, but that part is fine since you will replace the bearing, what is not fine is that it can dissolve a lot of things that should not be dissolved inside the motor, like wires insulation, the potting on the stator, the glue that holds the stator in place and so on
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so what is everyone thinking about the piece of the magnet missing? motor feels like it got a little more resistance than usual, also dosn’t run very smooth, as if “something was missing” but what’s the science of a piece of magnet missing in an e-motor? do I lose energy? more friction from the bearings as things are a bit “off”? did about 10 miles today, went smooth, didn’t go faster than 20mph, it’s an intermediate solution, at least I’m glad I can ride it again, cells already seemed to go out of balance from waiting, had it stored half full (3.7V) and by the time it went to 3.4V I had differences of up to about 0.05V in some cells - oh well it’s always something isn’t it… nice board though, big enough to bring a lightweight female along, I did that the other day, it was rather romantic
Nothing to stress over. More than .05 is when you start worrying
also it’s rather intriguing that only BMS1 seems to have the discrepancies, the other is lined up perfectly - what could be the reason? more load/stress on the back vs the front?
I hear so much anti-wd40-ism these days, also from the aluminum welder guy I met today, when he showed me his stash of lubricants he merely remarked “meh, I just got it in there so it’s in there” what is it with this thing, what is it actually good for? how did it become so ubiquitous while also getting so much flak?
You probably have the same issue as @brown5tick I think his also got messed up after getting wet.
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@T-Nomad hi there, I bought those ones, they ship internationally (well at least in europe)
it improved the noise a lot, but it was not like new, as the motors have two other bearings each, and they whirr after getting too wet a lot, too. still a lot better.
there are two types of lockups: if you ride in the rain, and don’t blowdry the motors after the ride, the motor/bearings can lock up the next day, usually it unlocks if you step on the board and wiggle a bit, the intertia required to unlock the motor in this state can not be brought up by hand, you have to jump on the board, then it “breakes free” at least in my case.
the other type of motor lock I had was because of a damaged motor, it got debris from the front (I rush up steep gravel roads and the motor hull on the v1 is rather thin (they made it thicker on the v2) so one of the rocks dented the chassis which destroyed one of the magnets inside. they sent me a used replacement and I am still happy with it, also it is way more silent than the other motors (it never got really wet).
I have a new problem with one of the motors though, and I am not sure if it was user-error, after replacing all the big bearings, one of the motors is wiggling (by 1-2mm) on his axis, not sure what I have missed, I tried to find it out once, but failed. it works fairly normal, is very loud, and feels a bit unsafe, but have done 800km with it already. any ideas what could cause this?
@regarding the battery: well it seems to have gotten worse, but it is not constant. I think I messed it up when I stressed it too much after having to charge it at almost negative temperatures close to a mountaintop, then I had to start the descent early in the morning which meant it would further charge which had it temporarily go to 4.3V or something close. so essentially overcharging at freezing temps, can’t be good. anyways, I almost use it daily in winter, it’s such a rugged workhorse, I occasionally use it for collecting wood and bringing it home to dry. so essentially now I have various packs acting weird, when I charge it and have it balance a night, the max difference is still 0.1V when it is 30% the difference become way bigger, up to 0.2V more or less. I noticed it struggled to violently throw me up steep hills as when it was new, but I think after 6k kilometers and almost daily use this is understandable. wonder if there is a simple way to replace single cells from the stunning pcb inside this monster of a machine.
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Im not sure if you’re serious or not but WD40 was ultimately made for Atlas missiles to displace water/moisture on the outer skin preventing rust or corrosion. WD - Water displacement | 40 - Attempt #40. For some reason people think it is a degreaser, lubricant, penetrant, coolant, while its not really any of those things but can do all of those things in a pinch but you’d be better served by purpose specific products.
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You replaced a ZZ bearing with a ZZ bearing, in a location where water literally gets sucked into a motor and your solution is jumping on the board when it locks up from water ingress…?
Your battery is pretty much a bomb at this point as well…
it’s rare that it locks up after a ride. one just needs to make sure the bearings don’t get wet, that’s all. what about the bomb? you a bomb specialist? from what I remember bioboards uses fuses for every single cell on the pcb-battery. have you watched the images? it’s battery heaven, the plut v1 is probably the safest volvo of esk8 out there, security features all over the place, for the things I have done with it, it should have exploded 10 times over. lol… I would say there is not even a chance for a battery fire in the v1, no matter what I do (apart from firing a rifle at it, maybe). it gets extreme use, yeah, but if mine has not spectacularly failed yet, none of yours likely ever will. I have given bb a lot of flak for minor issues, the reality is it still easily pushes me up (although not as ferociously as when it was new) any incline for a whole battery charge, I visited friends on a shed at 2000m altitude the other day. easy pc. I started at 850m altitude. go figure. on a fucking skateboard. it’s worth it just for the looks you get 
this thing is a tank since I had the trucks welded to the geardrives and added some washers to the battery-case as it would otherwise start to crack.