Hello all.
It’s been awhile since my last post. Sorry for that, regulations in Norway now are the worst.
I have an issue with the diy Torqueboard motors, the hall sensor wires are tornt off from the hall sensor board inside the TB 6374 190kv motor. What do i do ? I am skilled in soldering, so if I am told how I can solder on new cables and such.
Cheers Marius
Best thing to do IMHO is not use sensors.
What kind of vehicle is this? Does it have bindings for feet? Are there two motors or one? Is it a street vehicle or a forest vehicle?
Thanks for quick reply b264 
Its a street build with dual motors, I took it for a ride now with only one motor, and to my surprise it was almost as fast as with 2 motors even uphill.
I bought some equipment to battle harden the motors but need to fix hall sensor board first
its this build
but I scaled down to 12s4p and I quite recently changed a burnt focxbox unity to storm core 100d
Have you tried HFI yet? Some motors work great with it, some not as much. There’s also sometimes a very involved tuning process. But it can eliminate the need for sensor.
No, nice suggestion didn’t even know this was possible. Will def investigate further and might scrap hall sensors altogether. Thanks 
woah woah woah, wats wrong w/ sensors
Nothing wrong m8, but imagine if they were obsolete. at least for positioning that might seem to be the case
Nothing. Just personal opinions.
Sure, id love to get some help regarding saving the hall sensor board/wires 
False, you can clearly see they are detached from the motor and not working.
yes, or more precisely: detached from the hall sensor circuit board altogether, with one hall sensor completely missing from the tip of the board
There seem to be 4 routes you can take:
So it’s really your choice, all 4 are viable options. I would personally not bother with fixing them, but that’s me.
Do my pcb look damaged to you ? or do I just need to solder the wires back onto the pcb
What country are you inside of?
Norway
I second this as the same thing happened on my hub motors so I just removed the broken off PCB and left everything else the same. It worked the same as before but with a little extra noise that was pretty quiet. You could buy new hall sensor chips and try to still use that pcb but it isn’t worth the effort to do that IMO.
With a VESC there are way more options for you to use that make using sensors not needed too as b264 already mentioned.
Ok cool thanks, but now I have a dual setup with one motor running perfectly sensored and one completely in the dark, sensor wise. Is that gonna cause any issues ?
Both motors don’t have to be the same.
If an ESC runs fine like that than I’m sure a VESC can handle it too. (plus @b264 said it is fine already) my hub motor board has been running like that for several months currently
