thanks! Did you never use some filler as well? To even the surface before sanding?
I use the same epoxy for that, might not be the cheapest option though 
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Ah ok you use it like a top coat. Do you just poor it on top and let it drip for that purpose?
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More or less, I distribute it with a brush 
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Looks like a tank! Are you planning to target some legs? 
Cool colour. More walls would make it not transparent.
Exactly, but also more rigid. The infill works as a cushion so a leg might survive a collision at least the deck would survive a collision with a wall 
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I had my first board against the wall. The nose got destroided. So better like that.
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Yeah, made it easily to work from home, right now I have no idea how far that is but I still had around 50% when I disconnected the booster (stealth mode 
)
Another Focbox bites the dust 
Today I had another one fail, the DRV looks blown and it shorted phases. Had to carry the board the rest of the track since it was slightly braking on one side and didn’t want to cause another burn up like last time 
So far the famous Focboxes turned out way more unreliable for me than the infamous Flipskys. Now I’ll put in my last working FB but if it fails I’ll get a FSESC 4.20 dual with the modifications that makes them reliable, It cant get any worse
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If it’s always the same side I would check the motor too. Moves the phase wires and run detection you can also measure the internal resistance if you have the tool.
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Mhh, haven’t had an issue associated with the hummies so far, last broken focbox was already repaired and I’m sure a wire from the repair went loose again. But I’ll remember next time that it was the right side (top view) since I just wrote it this one has the typical burned spot on the drv 
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Ok just say it because of it happens always on the same side the problem can be elsewhere. Probably is just the DRV that doesn’t like 12s
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I just finished the repair, lets see how long it takes this time It might have been a faulty CAN connection or a loose phase wire but I’m not sure. All of them are the newer version without the CAN problem…
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For the phase wires you can heat shrink the two connected or add kapton tape on top of both. In this phase the phase wire cna not disconnected anymore. The second problem l, if you have hot glue or something to keeps the JST in place, there isn’t much to do about it. You can try Split PPM but then bye bye can forward connection.
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Yeah, I’m always doing the shrinkwrapping. I found one of the connectors quite loose, thas why I got the idea Anyhow, its rolling again, I’m happy
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