197 cm
laying down
bruh i feel ya. you ever just lay down in the grass, and look at the clouds, and then a plane hits your dick and ruins the whole vibe?
laughs in 5 foot 9 jkjk. @jan, nice deck, but its way too long, my limits 37 or 38 inches. i love the style, though. my deck guy is wonderful, but im not sure how open he is to big batches, so i may bother you about that in the future.
Looks like a solid contender for sure, good work! I would seriously consider getting one just to have a build name Mostly, but not entirely fat dick!
I made a few improvements to my GP build.
First, while the @XTLA mounts are very sexy, they are also very long and can’t be forward mounted. Having the motors backwards mounted annoys me since I’m used to grabbing my board at the front truck and pull it like a trolley. That doesn’t work with backwards mounted motors. I have to grab the rear truck instead, which is harder because the motors are in the way. It’s also heavier to lift.
I really wanted forward mounted motors. So I had custom mounts made. They are very simple. I just drew the shape and had them laser cut from 5mm aluminum. By far not as nice as the original but after a little bit of sanding they look decent. I only kept the clamps and crossbars from the @XTLA mounts.
Also, since I was already at it, I designed the mounts with a big enough opening for the bearing on the Reachertech motors. Now the can sits flat against the mount and there’s no need for spacers, which is nice and convenient. Pictures:
Next, I only had lucid grip on the deck and I felt I wasn’t getting enough grip. First, I cut a few honeycomb shapes from griptape and added them on top of the lucid grip. This actually helped a lot.
Then I got the idea of adding a half-biding for the front foot for even more support in turns. I didn’t see any good way of installing in the traditional way so I reverse mounted it instead. Thanks to the flat deck shape, the binding baseplate sits on it nicely.
This is working very well. The binding makes a huge difference if I want to turn aggressively. Yet it doesn’t lock me in too much (which I wouldn’t like) and is reasonably easy to bail out from.
The only problem is that the ground clearance under the motors is a bit lacking. I actually hit a motor can on the way home today. 
I may add a riser and tilt the mounts slightly more upwards and/or 3D print a bash-guard.
Other than that, I’m very happy about these changes.
Beautiful! What binding is that?
Freebord
Looks great! Maybe tilt the motor mount a little more upwards. It’s super low.
It looks lower than it is but you’re right i could push it little bit upwards. But they have to be pretty low other wise the motor mounts hit the deck when i make sharp turns.
I’m more interested in the telemetry setup you have going on here 
What device do you have logging? Does it connect to vesc for the speed data? What sensor is it using to detect when you finish a lap? The overlay is really cool! (Sorry if this is off-topic)
GoPro 5 and newer have extremely good GPS modules that are both very accurate and log with a high frequency (about 30 Hz on my GoPro 6). The GPS log is embedded in the .mp4 file. You take it, import it into the RaceChrono Pro app and it makes this nice overlay for you… apart from a lot of other useful stuff. You can analyze your laps in detail; even compare with other riders on the same track if they use RaceChrono as well.
Here’s my best qualifying lap compared with David’s best qualifying lap:
oh wow 30 Hz is like two orders of magnitude faster than I was expecting that’s so cool. Did you pick this trick up somewhere else, like is it a common track day tool?
I’m experimenting with a 3D printed concave. I don’t really miss the concave when riding casually but when racing I feel like more support would help.
This is what I came up with:
The part is too big to be printed on my Prusa printer so I split it in the middle and printed as two parts.
For starters, I just used black PLA and printed without supports. The bottom is made to copy the shape of the deck so it’s not completely flat. It doesn’t print great without supports but it does work.
I heated up the finished print with a heat gun to soften it and then I pressed it against the deck. That made it copy the deck shape almost perfectly.
Here’s how it looks on the deck:
I’m going to put some grip tape on it. Then it should look a lot better.
I’m not sure if I’m going to use the holes for the bolts. So far I just taped it to the deck with a double-sided tape and that seem to be good enough (and I didn’t even put a lot of tape).
I haven’t ridden the board yet (it’s rainy) but just by standing on the board I can feel there’s a lot of difference. I’m sure this will be a significant improvement when going around corners.
Here’s the STL file. Mirror it in your slicing software to get the second part.
gp_concave_1.stl (103.1 KB)
That track, the conditions and the detail in that telemetry is like esk8 Shangri la. I was squealing like a child watching that video… wishing you had a more torque-y setup 
There’s something a bit perverse about adding concave to the FBNEF deck, dude, but I sympathise completely. Have you considered making a NFAA deck?
Haha, thanks. I don’t think the board needs more torque. It just needs a better rider. 
I’m still considering it. I’m actually already working on something…
The problem is that I have gazillion versions of it and I can’t decide for one. There are so many variables. If only there was an easy way to have a deck made, test it and iterate.
I still think there’s value in a mostly flat deck. It makes things so much easier when building into the deck and you can always add whatever concave you like.
For the concave variable on the deck design you could cut the model up and 3D print the concave wing part. Then test the feel with your own feet. If you have three different versions, it might already give you a good indication for which concave feels best.
Right. That’s pretty much what I’m already doing. 
This one is raised too much in the middle. Not comfortable.
This one feels nice. However, there’s a little valley near the drop-down. On one hand it’s nice since your toes fit right in and you get locked in nicely. On the other hand, you’re missing leverage on toe side turns.
Still, there are so many more variables. The deck length, width, drop down size and transition angle, split angles or not – and if yes, how much… So many questions.
Hahaha thats awesome. Maybe make a design requirements sheet, makes it easier to focus the design.
