You can easily configure the motor FOC and input signals through the vesc tool wizard page.
After the MOTOR and APP are configured. Then set the shutdown mode of the right ESC to activate the button function.
Note that the left ESC needs to be kept ALWAYS ON.
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The process for ppm config has stayed the same for quite a while, you should be able to just use the input setup wizard
The pin out on the diagram was wrong . Issue solved
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Correct me if I’m wrong on anything above.
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Has @YUTW123 addressed this issue? It seems like a significant problem that switching to current mode doesn’t fix for everyone.
I’d love to know why it’s happening and if there is anything can be done on the consumer end to fix it properly.
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Yeah I should edit my post. I heard that full current solved it but I’ve heard more recently it really doesn’t.
I’m kinda worried for my 4wd build but we will find out I guess.
@YUTW123 is this a hardware thing or is there a setting we can adjust in vesc to improve the low speed braking?
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He claimed it was firmware related but I thought the 100250 firmware versions were basically the same with the values changed to suit the hardware. I’m no expert so take it with a grain of salt but I definitely think it’s hardware did earlier versions didn’t have this issue? None that I know of.
I’ve gone through every setting with David and I gave up there was no difference in braking force each time.
Something is making the vesc to stop supplying current at a certain -erpm range.
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I tried with 11/55 gear drives and I understand how you didn’t notice the problem.
The higher ratio with small pinion definitely makes the weak braking stronger.
But with 15/72 it’s really shit.
It’s not a fix, definitely a band aid as it limits what gearing you can use with the vesc.
I tested on the bench with smart reverse and current no reverse with brake and the motors are the same, turn easy by hand but the gear reduction really makes a big difference at the wheel being really quite hard to turn.
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I’m wondering if lowering the minimum current in motors>general>advanced> from the default 0.05a to 0.01a help?
Would it be worse with less current?
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The way I read it that’s the threshold before the motors are released lowering that would mean if there is lower current input the motors would not release until it’s lower than 0.01a.
I might be way off too.
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Can confirm what it claims to do, but I don’t think changing from 0.05 to 0.01 is gonna make a difference, feel free to try tho
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I’m on current mode and haven’t seen this issue with my d100s at 16s
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What gearing ratio? Sensored or sensorless?
4.8:1
Sensored
I tried @poastoast board and it doesn’t quite seem to be there. But he’s running sensorless, and I notice the transition actually starts to cog instead. Also, full current.
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I just tested it by lowering the minimum current and it doesn’t seem to do anything.
This seems to have something to do with the 100250 firmware, not the hardware. In practice I don’t think it has much effect as the motor is released as the speed approaches 0.
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I have already uploaded firmware with an absolute maximum current greater than 300A. If your D100S encounters an ABS current fault, you can try updating the firmware.
If your ESC can be set to an absolute maximum current above 300A, it means it has already been updated, and you don’t need to take any further action.
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What a pain trying to run 4wd with the new ESCs!!! I’ve been toying with upgrading to new dv6s escs but my OG DV6 pro is still doing just fine in 4wd connected to a an OG DV6. I simply run a loop key on both ESCs with 5.3FW.
If it aint broke don’t fix it I guess but wish I could upgrade to an ESC i could push more amps without thermal throttling. How do the new DV6s conpare to DV6 Pro for heat?
I’m really not keen to upgrade until the CAN issue for 4wd is sorted and escs can be powered on seperately without causing issues. Hooe this gets sorted soon 