The way I read it that’s the threshold before the motors are released lowering that would mean if there is lower current input the motors would not release until it’s lower than 0.01a.
I might be way off too.
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Can confirm what it claims to do, but I don’t think changing from 0.05 to 0.01 is gonna make a difference, feel free to try tho
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I’m on current mode and haven’t seen this issue with my d100s at 16s
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What gearing ratio? Sensored or sensorless?
4.8:1
Sensored
I tried @poastoast board and it doesn’t quite seem to be there. But he’s running sensorless, and I notice the transition actually starts to cog instead. Also, full current.
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I just tested it by lowering the minimum current and it doesn’t seem to do anything.
This seems to have something to do with the 100250 firmware, not the hardware. In practice I don’t think it has much effect as the motor is released as the speed approaches 0.
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I have already uploaded firmware with an absolute maximum current greater than 300A. If your D100S encounters an ABS current fault, you can try updating the firmware.
If your ESC can be set to an absolute maximum current above 300A, it means it has already been updated, and you don’t need to take any further action.
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What a pain trying to run 4wd with the new ESCs!!! I’ve been toying with upgrading to new dv6s escs but my OG DV6 pro is still doing just fine in 4wd connected to a an OG DV6. I simply run a loop key on both ESCs with 5.3FW.
If it aint broke don’t fix it I guess but wish I could upgrade to an ESC i could push more amps without thermal throttling. How do the new DV6s conpare to DV6 Pro for heat?
I’m really not keen to upgrade until the CAN issue for 4wd is sorted and escs can be powered on seperately without causing issues. Hooe this gets sorted soon 
It’s not an issue man never was. I use two buttons power em on and off whenever.
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Like @sugandese said, powering on and off escs separately is not an issue.
The issue is if you connect or disconnect xt90 (battery cable) to one ESC, while the CAN cable is connecting the two ESCs.
One simple workaround to make sure both ESCs are always disconnected/connected at the same time, is to wire the battery leads together on the ESCs. I’m also not 100% sure this will prevent blowing up the CAN chips, but it should make it less likely. I’d still disconnect the CAN cable before plugging in or unplugging the escs.
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This also on the new FW you’ve uploaded I’m guessing? So, the issue still exists?
Must be that’s he’s not disconnecting the -ve terminals that it hasn’t been an issue with the loopkeys so far.
Yeah it’s still a problem.
Oh shit, I just realized @JeffyJ is running CAN connected DV6’s and TWO LOOPKEYS.
This is weird. Based on what people have said about MakerX esc’s I’d expect that to be a recipe for blowing up the CAN chips.
@DerelictRobot any thoughts here? is this a ticking time bomb for blowing up CAN chips?
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Anyone run both the Original DV6 Pro and the new DV6s and can tell me if DV6s can dissapate heat any better? Better question, it doesnt heat up as quickly with same amps running through it?
Yes this is correct. Have done for almost a year now.
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I think the dv6 is much closer to the “reference” v6 design, which may actually have protected CANBUS, but then makerx dropped it for their more “custom” designs?
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@YUTW123 many people have reported that the brakes on the d100s do not work at low speeds.
Are you looking into this?
Are there any settings that people can adjust to improve the low speed braking using the d100s?
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Reading through all this and it seems i have a pair of golden goose eggs… im running my DV6’s on the 4WD off 1 loop key, it all splits at the battery and the loop key is on the -battery side.
Lemme find a pic…
So am i just lucky and got through on ignorence?
If you’re breaking power to both at the same time its fine