Go-FOC DV4s/DV6s/D100s<FREE SHIPPING!>

yeah thats the issue. Vesc tool mobile is very quirky but it absolutely works reliably when you learn how to use it

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Yeah it’s shit house I’ll stick to my panel mount and cable. Keeps scrambling those vesc IDs. Not worth the hassle.

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I’ve only ever used the app with Bluetooth to setup my board and I swear it’s the easiest thing to use or keep track of. Are all these issues a firmware version issue on the app or are they occurring solely from bluetooth failure? Don’t think I’ve seen anyone try to fully diagnose the issue yet, so all we see are people with opposite experiences and little info to prove what the issue might be.

What are everyone else’s experiences with using BT on the Go-Focs?

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I use BT to tweak settings on the go no major issue that I’ve seen. It does occasionally mess up. Like one time the app still had the settings of another esc in the multi settings window. Since I run 4wd I was switching back and forth a lot. So, when I wrote, I wrote the other ESCs current settings when I was just trying to change wattage.

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@YUTW123 are the CAN chips protected on D100s, so that they don’t blow if one esc is powered on before the other in 4wd setups?

None of them are iirc

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They don’t blow up. It’s only when the xt90’s are initially plugged in there is a risk of current inrush damaging the can line.

Leave the can line unplugged until you’ve connected your 90’s and you’re all good. I’ve been using two power buttons for months.

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Thanks for the heads up.

So connect XT90s before connecting CAN, and you’re all good?

@sugandese doesn’t roll to start fire up the second ESC anyway? Curious why you did two buttons. :slight_smile:

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D100s doesn’t have it for some reason

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I’m running d75’s. 2 different batches, one with a normally open button and one with a normally closed.

I blew one up earlier this year plugging those xt90’s in with the can line connected but yeah do it before you plug in the can line and you’re all good.

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@zero_ads ran into an issue with single on button where only one esc turns on sometimes when you don’t press the on button long enough, so maybe it’s better just to run two buttons anyway.

Turning it off you can be super quick no problem. Turning it on I always hold 2-3 seconds. But if only one is on, a quick press won’t turn on the other side to get back to a good state.

I have no space for two buttons lol

Linking @frame D100s heatsink measurements - 95mm x 30mm

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Sorry if it has already been answered, but if I don’t want to use a switch with D100S, what I have to do with GND, 5V and SW on the right?

I mean wich ones I have to put together?

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SW+GND

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Did this help at all or did you never solve the issue?

I’m noticing this braking issue now that I’ve moved to larger sized motor pinions 15/67. It lets to and just rolls as you said.

When I was on 11 and 12T pinions I didn’t notice this being an issue. But quite noticeable now that I’m on 15T. Quite strange, not a huge bother at the moment…

I’m on 15/72. I didn’t bother with full current I just pulled out it and boxed it. There’s no real fix.

I just found with braking (not rolling in reverse) the current to the motors is really weak on the bench.

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So, uhh, my dv6s doesn’t want to turn off. I think I remember seeing someone else with this issue

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