I got my vx1 to work a-ok over uart AND ppm. I just couldn’t get smart reverse working. in fact, current mode isnt letting me reverse either
I couldn’t get smart reverse working for the life of me, I tried literally everything I could think of, except a re-flash
If you want full current mode to work I think I had to switch it to current bi directional or something, I think the 5.3 firmware treats it differently
Super weird, unfortunately I don’t really know, except i would recommend trying a different remote to eliminate that variable
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What is your negative ramping time set to in vesc tool? Set it to 0.1 so that it returns to neutral quickly.
I think its because I was trying to get FOC HFI to work with these radium v1 beta motors that dont have working sensors. Evwan reminded me that the phase filtering needs to be turned off so that is most likely the issue. I set it to sensorless mode and turned off phase filtering and it was working better. however I noticed that I dont have as much power as I did with the UBOX v2 and also my motors got insanely hot within 5 miles of casual riding in central park today. Motors started getting jerky and shit, throwing me off balance a bit. And it got to the point where i stopped, picked up the rear end off the ground and tried to max throttle the remote, yet the motors were pinned at like 12mph then would ramp up to 36mph after holding the throttle at max for 5 or more seconds.
motors have 12t pulleys
wheels have 42T pulleys
120mm jetsurf airless wheels
I was expecting more torque with this setup but something is waaayyyyyy offf
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I forgot that there is currently an issue with phase filtering and I was trying to use FOC HFI bc my Radium v1 betas are sensorless. turned it off and now that issue is gone. Please take a look at my other reply tho because I’m having other issues that arent fun and I need some suggestions.
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Sounds like position measurement is failing and/or you have a loose phase wire causing jerkiness and different speeds.
I would redo motor detection / only redo motor resistance and inductance measurements in the FOC tab if I were you. And of course check that your connections are all solid.
You could also share the result here, maybe someone can compare with theirs to let you know if the detection results are way off or something.
Also worth checking for faults in the vesc terminal after you have been on a ride and haven’t power-cycled the board yet.
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Thanks for the suggestion. I will definitely try that. any ideas why they are getting so hot though. these were the coolest running motors Ive used when I was running the ubox v2. Im gonna test the flipsky 6384s with the D75 to compare. First Im gonna go back to the Ubox and see if they still get hot before I swap motors. The deck was in a pretty serious collision with a parked car about a month ago but the motors do not have a visual damage, maybe internally something is messed up?
Good chance you’ve damaged the inner race of the motor bearings, happened to my maytech 6355s after a car accident. Check resistance to spin unloaded.
Edit: parked car makes this less likely, but a flat spot or groove in the inner or outer races will cause immense resistance to free roll.
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I got them rebalanced back to when they were new. There are actually 4 inner bearings in the Radiums. the design is great becasue you can replace all those bearings and align the shaft. its a possibility, if its the same with the UBOX running FOC HFI then you might be right, but the spinning resistance was the same IMO
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I’m not an electro-mechanical engineer (so correct me if I’m wrong), but I would hypothesize that if the ESC isn’t tracking the motor position correctly, it could be dumping current into the motor at vector angles that don’t produce much torque, and mostly end up as waste heat.
I would personally get the motors working well with the ESC (no jerkyness and proper speed at full throttle) before opening them up to check the bearings or anything.
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I followed J Friesens video on how to get HFI working and got very good results when the UBOX was connected. I did the same with the D75 and got the tracking down but then scrapped it all when Evwan reminded me that Phase Filtering needs to be turned off on the D75. the Radium v1 betas I have are sensorless. Is there a technique to get them tracking properly? Im only familiar with the HFI tuning stuff when it comes to sensorless motors.
Your theory sounds highly probable because im not getting the same power from the motors as the UBOX even though all the settings are the same including the battery.
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If I’m not wrong I thought phase filtering is used in the hfi process, especially silent hfi
I don’t have a source but I think that was said somewhere
Maybe the dv75 isn’t a good hfi candidate as it stands rn
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when I switched it to sensorless FOC it was working better and stopped trying to take off on its own. Evwan told me HFI needs phase filtering so ya, the D75 is not capable of HFI right now.
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Just run in regular sensorless mode without HFI. Sensors aren’t used for positioning at mid to high speed anyway. It’s only smooth startup from standstill you lose out on.
thats what I ended up doing and I also tried sensorless BLDC mode, but im lacking power/ torque and top speed and its jolting/ inconsistent power. currently swapping to the ubox at this moment. hopefully ill have some usefull results in a few hours.
Edit: I forgot to mention that when I had the motors and D75 ESC set to sensorless BLDC the motors were getting around 10 to 20 amps at a dead stop and it was near impossible to kick push. it was like in full brake. only after I would force it to move by pushing it hard would the motors release and begin to roll freely. Any ideas what thats about?
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You can try bumping up the startup boost value a little bit, that’s the old technique to get BLDC to launch a little better
Ultimately sensorless sucks.
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Perks of using prototype hardware I suppose.
Is it possible I must have soldered the 4mm bullet connectors on the esc phase wires improperly or heat leaked into the esc hardware? I took it out of the heat sink and had a fan blowing on the PCB wile I was swapping the bullet connectors.
I didnt cut the phase wires or anything. They seem pretty damn solid IMO
when measuring resistance, how much current should I use in the test using the terminal?
motors ran a lot cooler after swapping the esc back to UBOX on a 4 mile test ride. I also noticed that inductance and resistance values were A LOT different, and lower, on the UBOX. When I try setting up the D75 again I will screenshot those values and post them for comparison.
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is it confirmed that 75/300 firmware just works on this thing? i wanna go back to firmware 5.2 and see how it does
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