So I just got one, plugged it in and it doesn’t turn on…
Waiting on a reply in email now.
Kind of need a little more info than that
Have you done anything to troubleshoot it yet
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did you use the included power button?
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Yes
Tested it on multiple batteries including a 3s and 12s, also tried without power button
@YUTW123 What testing is done on these before they leave the factory? What’s your QC/QA methodology?
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Short press for 1 second to open, tap to close. Automatic shutdown after 10 minutes of inactivity
Edited: Turning it on the first time required the power switch.
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Can we change this?
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I didn’t see your email, which email did you send it to?
PM U
cannot be changed, it is fixed
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I have some concerns about air-gap separation with mounting hardware and the battery positive solder pad in your design; the left-most phase wire for each motor is within 1-3mm of either a mounting bolt head or the battery positive. As such, (this becomes more critical with the higher-voltage models such as the D100,) you may not have enough isolation to avoid arc-shorting between phase output and case ground or battery positive input. I also see flux that was not removed between pads on my D60 I received. For those that want to avoid some of the failures others have seen, does it make sense to remove residual flux and coat the solder connections with some sort of insulating material such as neutral-cure silicone or varnish?
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Another option I guess would be dielectric silicone grease, though that has a chance to wash away or vibrate off over time. Regardless, i’d highly suggest to re-arrange your pad spacing to reduce the possibility of arc. Considering the few failed ESC’s we’ve seen have a blown positive solder connection, I suspect this has something to do with it. If I do add insulating material to my ESC, will that affect any warranty? I also need to swap to 4mm bullets and AS150 connector for my board.
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Should people just add their own neutral cure silicone (dab of hot glue)?
Simple test before assembling the case. Full current test after assembled the case.
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Good to know; as it turns out, I was mistaken and the air gaps are probably fine, though with the proximity if anything even remotely conductive reaches the pads it’ll still cause a pretty serious short. I’ll probably still add conformal coating of some kind just to hedge my bets.
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Came with correct 5.3 FW uploaded and passed motor detection the first go on a pair of 173kv Reacher V4s. No issues so far, wheels are rolling. I’ll post an update once I can push this thing a little harder, but I’m already higher than what I felt comfortable with on Stormcore.
Not much to note. It works. The power button is much smaller than Stormie so needs a grommet. ̶H̶a̶s̶ ̶a̶n̶ ̶r̶g̶b̶ ̶l̶e̶d̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶ ̶p̶o̶w̶e̶r̶ ̶i̶n̶d̶i̶c̶a̶t̶i̶o̶n̶ ̶s̶o̶ ̶t̶h̶a̶t̶’̶s̶ ̶n̶i̶c̶e̶. *Not sure why the power switch indicates vbat on one of the pins, but that led stays green. Phase wires are 11awg. Mosfet side is conformal coated.
No glue under the caps but instead a piece of thermal pad.
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What gauge are the power wires? Looks like 10awg?
Yea they are 10awg
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