I just ordered one of these. Never 3D printed before. Do I need ink (plastic?)?
1 Like
Hatchbox or Overture PLA, 1.75mm. Iāve been using both with great results lately.
On Amazon in a variety of colors.
Recommend picking up one non-black filament as itās easier to see your first layers.
And level your printer. Do it right. Take your time your first time to understand the process. A well leveled bed means a good first layer, which is foundational to your print quality overall.
You will need to choose a Slicer program that generates gcode from an mesh 3d file (STL). Personally I use Simplify3D but the license is a bit spendy (worth it in the long run hands down imo). Otherwise Cura is free and perfectly serviceable.
5 Likes
Im creating another thread with some guides and tutorials for 3d printing and setting up this machine
4 Likes
Now Iām going to get to say things like āIāll just 3D print itā, and āHey dude, do you have a 3D printer? Oh you donāt? I doā¦ā, and āFuck it. Iāll just 3D print another oneā¦ā andā¦
to be continuedā¦
11 Likes
This holds me back
@skunk well you have to buy filament. If you have a tool collection and digital calibers, the tools are covered. And you donāt have to do any or all of the upgrades to get started.
I was at 160 with one roll of filament.
I donāt have much for tool at all by really.
1 Like
Lets just say that if I didnāt pick it up that FT5 kit for $100 I would not have purchased it. (Figured at the very least I could pillage the extrusion and linear rails for another project) I built it as designed but will be rebuilding it as a CoreXY machine very soon. The FT6 is a step in the right direction, updated electronics, 110v silicone heating pad, etc, but IMO if you donāt need that 700mm length axis there would be more value in other machines at that price point, or DIYing.
Lol wife got upset I cancelled it. Reordered.
8 Likes
home depot mirrorsā¦ buy 5ā¦ and easy-peasy watered down white glueā¦ you canāt get better/easier/cheaper/better
Donāt be concerned about upgrades for now, all you need is PLA/PLA+ filament. And whatever problems you are having, weāll help you figure it out.
Upgrades are necessary when you move to different material(like ABS, nylon, TPU etc) and higher speeds. Only upgrade when problems are not fixed by what you have.
5 Likes
Heavily considering this.
My FAVORITE upgrade so far as been the silent board mod. Holy crap is it quiet now. The only thing I hear is the fans. I love it.
1 Like
Actually I also would say that you need a dual gear extruder. Donāt worry, itās not as expensive as it sounds.
I bought this junk one that a bunch of the ender 3 YouTube guys recommend. Its better than the stock one but still shit. It uses one gear to push the filament from one side. The other side is just an idler. I got a lot of binding/skipping with it.
Eventually I bought this dual one and immediately was able to print with no more binding. I can even print a bit faster with it. It pushes the filament from both sides using the one extuder motor.
2 Likes
Donāt be concerned with them ever.
Join the 3d printer Straight-Edge Purist Stock Club. Weāre basically a gang.
NOT an elaborate scheme to cover up how emotionally over it I am with modding my printers. Theyāre all red-headed foster kids to me at this point, Iām only keeping them around so long as theyāre beneficial.
1 Like
This on glass is the best print surface Iāve personally found.
Ive been having good luck on the buidtac surface that comes with the ender3 recently. Also because lazy.
3 Likes
I started doing the whole upgrade thing and got lazy as well. The only things Iāve done now is replace things that broke. The extruder gear cracked so I put a metal one on it. The Bowden tube melted so I put a Capricorn tube on.
Oh and those springs. But thatās it. I have the skr board but one of my stepper drivers wasnāt working so I put the stock on back in and stopped fucking with it
1 Like
Just FYI, discount no longer working for me. Anyone else confirm?
2 Likes
Yeep. Promo over.
2 Likes