I saw on the teaching tech YouTube channel he had some flexible surface that you kinda just pull away from the build after. Maybe worth looking into
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That’s like the stock sheet that comes with the ender 3. You can unclog it and bend it to release parts. Glass bed, I let it cool down and it usually separates itself for me unless the first layer is really large.
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For larger PETG parts, I get generous with my glue application to the build platform and that effectively acts as a release layer.
For smaller parts, it’s fine. I just did some broom handle and ironing board mounts in abs and PETG without issues. For something with a large surface area, that’s when you can have issues. I’d avoid most of the stick on build sheets for PETG as they will all work too well.
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There are tons of good build surfaces but they all wear out. And that’s why I like mirror tiles. They all adhere with 3m backing that’s heat resistant, so they’re a bitch to remove. When I have a surface that’s ready to replace I just ditch the whole mirror tile it’s attached to
For some reason when I try to test print the dog file on the se card, I get a ton of retraction right before the first layer then I get no filament for the first layer.
Any ideas?
Maybe I should start posting in the 3D printing debugging thread?
You’re saving the file right from the slicer software?
Look at start g code in the printer settings and post what’s there. If there’s a G1 E-# at the beginning that’s the retraction. That may just be a purge function
Ok thanks, I’ll take a look
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So could anyone give some advice on nozzle removing
Mine is really old and rusty looking and however hard I turn (when heated and clamped heatblock ) it won’t come off any solutions
Also I have used like 35 0.4mm pins but still can’t clear my blocked nozzle and I am not sure how to cold pull on an E3D hotend
Are you turning the right direction? The torque for those should only be just snug.
Try heating the hot end to its max setable temp. I use a 7mm socket on a 1/4 drive screwdriver handle and an adjustable to hold the heater block.
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So I use an adjustable and some pliers to turn would those not work
So the way the heat break works is the throat of the heat break is very thin between the threads in the heater block and the threads in the heatsink.
Using pliers is fine, but keep in mind the design characteristics of what you’re working on. Using them potentially has more chances to create lateral loads trying to unscrew which can snap that heat break.
I’ve always used a socket and screwdriver handle with an adjustable. I’ve never broken one. And that seems to be an issue for many users
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Buy Capricorn tubing. What filament is that? If it’s what came with the machine, throw it out.
Get the nozzle off. The heat break is likely fine. May be easiest to just replace the nozzle if it’s clogged still
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The filament is some decent quality pla
Could it Be the hot end is jammed and that might be my problem
The nozzle is jammed. The PTFE tubing goes right down to it. Likely only the nozzle that’s stuck. Heat it up to 260
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Finally Anaheim to clear it out but still can’t unscrew the nozzle 
ehm, DO NOT try to loose a cold nozzle. You risk to break the nozzle thread. Heat it to 285°C or your max temp. of your printer. Makes life easier.
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By the way dudes. Update your firmware if your using Simplify3D to slice with this board. There’s a bug in the firmware that stops prints at 30-40%. I had to waste 12 hours and have @DerelictRobot watchdog info on the he internet to figure this out.
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