General Questions Thread 2025

Skill issue

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In all seriousness though, 1WD doesn’t work well for ā€œdragsterā€ style riding. It works really well for a ā€œskateboard without pushingā€ riding. Especially if it needs to be light and small, and mostly skateboard physics.

If you want mostly performance, at the expense of weight [and cost and complexity], and more racing oriented physics, or offroad use, I would never recommend 1WD.

1WD can be amazing for moving your body around a city gracefully.

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https://imgur.com/a/oZTJbS0 here’s a few photos of the hub, any help would be fantastic.

I believe you need to put something in those 2 empty holes on the silver rim and twist it to get access

I gave that a shot with the limited tools I have, but had no luck. I’m not sure if that plate is meant to rotate, but I’m just guessing. I’ll give it another go this weekend when I have access to better tools. Do you know of any company that sells 750W 90mm hubs for 12s packs? I might just need to buy a new pair for my board.

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Id add a disclaimer that you should really know how to foot brake if you’re gonna ride a esk8 like this. At this point in time most esk8ers expect their board to be able to fully stop them with some urgency and without foot braking.

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Ya, totally agree here and at that width you will absolutely have to make a spanner to do it - nothing not purpose fit is going to get the leverage you need. If you have a piece of bar or 2/4 sitting around you can try what I’ve done for explosion proof fittings in the past with some success (involving a lot of cussing and a little heat)

Make or use a vice or clamp that will attach to the black painted part of the hub - drill a hole in something and screw it down to it using those small screw holes in the black flanged part of the hub - make it as secure as you can. And don’t damage it.

(Just remember - it’s already broken so you can’t really break it. You can only maybe get lucky and fix the unfixable.)

Then take a lever sized 2/4 or whatever and mark the spacing of those two spanner pin holes on it - find a bolt or screw where the shaft is pretty close to the same diameter as the pin holes and drive it through the 2/4. You want the ā€œpinsā€ you add to this 2/4 spanner to be as accurate as you can - they should fit as snugly as possible in diameter and depth- and also the 2/4 needs to rest flat on the hub when they’re lined up.

I would try warming the hub but not cooking it - just a little heat and trying both directions to loosen it - ive seen these be left hand thread but obviously try right hand thread first (lefty loosey)

If that doesn’t work get a hack saw or band saw and open it up just to see if you were right about the magnets :grin:

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Like too many esk8 companies web pages, there is no, or frustratingly little details regarding product description, but maybe this qualifies:

https://www.backfireboards.com/collections/electric-skateboard-accessories/products/backfire-hub-motor-for-g2-black-g2-galaxy-g3-g3-plus-mini?variant=39867253915759

While I partially agree with you, you are mostly talking about a situation where someone is going too fast for the situation, again, a skill issue. Knowing how to foot brake is always good in my opinion, but for other reasons, such as a vehicle malfunction.

This assumes you get to choose the situation.

"In all seriousness though, 1WD doesn’t work well for ā€œdragsterā€ style riding. "

@b264 the one wheel peel is real.

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My most powerful 1WD board is on Cagumas with 12s at 50 amps. It actually seems to work great. Most of its use has been to and from a bus that is about a mile from my house and my office, though.

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1wd gun looking remote with an SLA battery 🫪

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Oh man, that bad boy needs an orange tip :rofl:

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That is a dinosaur.

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I think I have a bad G300 vesc at the throttle connection thing, something might be shorted, I have a throttle handle that I am not sure it works, I don’t do computers, what would be the way to see and maybe diagnose which is the issue in the vesc app? I know I can do the real time monitoring thingy where.

Does anyone know if the vx4 pro model is supposed to be able to pair to an original vx4 reciever? I almost lost my og remote and could not get the pro one to connect.

It might be because you need to put the vesc in pairing mode using the vesc tool but it’s been so long since I’ve paired my current remote that I dont remember.

Also anyone know if you can flash the pro to use the software on the original? I really don’t like the display being so messy and I can’t get it to switch the display even though it’s supposed to be an option.

Update: aside from some broken clips and the wires breaking it is fine. Not sure if the buttons are harder to press or if it has been like that for a while. I also can’t tell what scratches on the front are new or old

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Okay guys, this is the last bump to get over right now.
Update on situation:
I have 2 builds going right now, both mountain boards. One is running, its got a 12s2p, dv6s, 6374, Helical Bn AT drives, 8 inch tires, trampa 14 ply, and matrix 2 in front and Luna 350 in back. My other board is the bigger one with a 12s8p, spintend 75/100, 9 inch tires, moon drives, 6384s, same truck setup as other board.
My pretty much only problem that’s keeping me on one board is that the spintend in the big board doesn’t work. No matter the vesc tool, it says ā€œcan’t read firmwareā€, I just got a PC so I could download older vesc tool and the problem is still there. It seems like the move is to download newer firmware off of spintends website onto to the controller?
Is this the right thing to do?

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To me it sounds like something that’d probably need an st-link to fix.

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You have tried these older ones right? And plugging into each of the two sides.

Be very sure that you have a working and good condition data transferring cable because I once tried 6 different usb cables that all had the correct number of wires and pins without any working and buying a new one on Amazon fixed it.

Make sure to plug everything else out of the top of the vesc and give it a reasonable voltage. I found in the past mine could have just the bare minimum voltage and light up but not connect, then connect when I turned up the psu so just try be between 20v and 60v.

If you want to give Bluetooth another try, clicking a momentary power button 3 times will connect the internal BT module to ESCA, 4 times for ESCB, and 5 times will make it disconnected from both. If you own another BT module then plugging it in is worth a try

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