That seems alright, I am not the most familiar with different efficiency numbers but I don’t think you have much to be gained easily. On 7” or 8” pneumatics the best I ever really get is 26wh/km while taking it easy, I don’t even beat Dinnye’s 7wh/km if I go down by 100m over 1.5km.
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Did anyone ever made a different case for spinted remote that is 3d printable?
To be fair that was loaded x unlimited hub motors, 85mm quality thane. Pretty nice to cruise around on, but very little power. Once I did 92km on a 12s4p p42a pack. Probably could’ve done 100 if I didn’t get bored on the way home and increase speed. Probably shouldn’t have increased speed because I’d have needed exactly that 8 more kilometers to get home on battery 
That’s a lot of time to be riding at 20 km/h 
On super chill rides belt drivetrain it’s usually more like 8-10Wh/km depending on conditions. That was on 6384s, probably 55s would consume less. Might throw together a spare parts board with some 55s for this summer and see what efficiency I can get
@wpt_board thanes vs rubber is the main difference here… Rubber will always be at least 1.5x the consumption. I think 24Wh/mi is fairly reasonable already.
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How’s it going new here located in socal, my dad’s board is a boardnamic deck but changed to run by gears instead of belt, is there a mechanic that can fix it in socal? I believe the gear or something snapped when hitting the brakes
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@Dinnye yeah I figured I couldn’t get too low with rubber, just thinking of how I can max range with SR125 wheels specifically since I ended up liking the feel a lot on the roads here vs thane
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I have not used a hobby balance charger before.
Well i tried once on a gifted one, and after downloading manual and scrolling and beeping and scrolling and cursing for several minutes I got so irritated i nearly busted out the sledgehammer.
On my 10s battery balance wire adapter, in order to plug it into the 7s ‘capacity controller’ I used a 7 wire 2.54 jst plug for the first 6 p groups, and a 5 wire jst 2.54 for the final 4.
Group 6+ is group 7 - so i doubled the wires on that connector pin so the main negative on the 5 wire connector is the same electrically as the last red wire on the 7 wire.
I don’t know how your double 6s lipo balance charger will behave when the 6th group + is group 7- so perhaps just do 6 at a time to be safe.
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Do you already have the hardest sr125s? upping duro if you can will definitely help efficiency
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The SR125 medium compound apparently has pretty similar efficiency compares to pneumatic tires.
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Look in the app settings on vesc for roll to start, been a while but i think it’s a true false setting?
I’m sure someone on here can help you troubleshoot. Pictures always help. Maybe pull the wheel off and get a picture of the hub adapter side of the gear enclosure. Then pull the cover off and get some pictures of whatever is going on inside.
Does anyone have the swd port pinout for focbox unity? I can’t seem to find it
I did not find such a setting in vesc(
Where in so-cal you located? Ray has a shop in La Jolla, CA that services boards. La Jolla Ebike and Skate.
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Ah I see it now. I did remove the cover previously, didn’t think to search on the bluetooth module though
Thanks!
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Hey everyone,
I’m trying to increase acceleration on my Tynee Stinger and I want to learn the best way to do so.
Current setup:
Tynee Stinger (belt drive)
15T motor pulleys
5M 40T Kegel wheel pulleys
5M-15 265 belts
105mm Boosted-style urethane wheels
Stock ESC settings
Goal:
Highest possible launch torque
Strong hill climbing
I don’t care much about top speed
Prefer to stay on street wheels (not AT)
Questions:
Is gearing down (50T or 55T Kegel) the best move?
Has anyone fit 50T or 55T Kegel pulleys on a Stinger specifically?
What belt length worked?
Would switching to smaller wheels (90mm) give more benefit than 45T/50T?
I’m trying to avoid wasting money on parts that won’t fit. If anyone has done a torque-focused similar build, I’d love to hear what worked.
Thanks!
Got to the vaperware tab, input to the best of your knowledge as far as amperage (probably in the 30ish amps range. That will give you a baseline for what the torque value you are starting with. It doesn’t really have to be that accurate but it will let you play with variables. Adjust one setting (wheel size or tooth count etc) and try to pump up those numbers. Will also help to target the biggest bang for the buck. Gl and report back if you find something cool 
This is what i will try. Two 5s sets with the main negative pigtailed off. Thanks i’ll let u know if i succeed.
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The limit on the wheel side of things is basically the clearance of the pulley off the ground, so a bigger wheel with a proportionally bigger pulley should probably give slightly more clearance as long as you can find a properly sized one. I’m not sure what the realistic maximum pulley size for a given wheel size is, and opinions on that will probably vary. You could also look at changing the motor pulley, but there isn’t much room on that end, and the belt can start having skipping issues. Skipping probably won’t be an issue since I doubt the tynee stinger has very high motor torque, but it’s something to be aware of. I’m pretty sure 14T are fairly available, but it’s been a bit since I’ve bought belt drive parts.
Without changing the ESC, which will cost a whole lot more and probably be a big pain, wheels and the two pulleys are your only options, though.
