Grandpa sounds like a dude
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Ya, work closer with him and pick his brain. Dude is finding solutions.
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@A-damW how would i do this? This is not a smart bms so i cant use the app, but i do have a charger that goes up to 6s, this is a 10s.
10s-8p 18650 samsung 30Q cells in a 6 y/o bajaboard battery that works ok then dies at 50% and will over charge if i leave it connected. Its only died once but charged right up when connected so i dont think its damaged.
Iâm curious what a current overall feeling is among people who have ridden BN270 hangersâs experience with their longetivity? Iâve picked up an impression of them being prone to cracking due to the material being too minimal around stress points from when I was reading old threads. Their slightness does make me kind of paranoid compared to the huge profiles of MTB trucks & one of @fearlesstvn 's hangers had indeed cracked around the pivot nub (picked it up still to harvest axles).
But Iâm liking them on my current street / urethane wheel build so Iâm hoping to keep using them. I switched out from stepped to 10mm axles to hopefully beef them up as much as they can get.
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Iâve been using them on my commuter for a couple years, and I did bend both of them when plowing into a big pothole, and was able to bend them straight. Iâm sure fatigue will get them eventually. I feel like theyâre juuuust strong enough to be a good idea for me to use on the street (Iâm 240lbs).
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Interesting - yeah the potholes and rough road are plentiful where I am too so thatâs whatâs got me concerned. Itâs making me feel like I should have a separate pneumatic based build for commuting around here and save this one for destination rides.
I actually cracked two BN270 hangers before I finally gave up running them on street/thane. After the second one I reached out to Kevin, and he confirmed theyâre really not designed for street use. A lot of material had to be removed around key stress areas to make room for the street gear drives, so theyâre kind of right on the edge strength-wise.
For what itâs worth, I switched to a 220mm hanger from Rafael and itâs been night and day. Much beefier, and I havenât had a single issue since â same roads, same riding style.
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Iâm more curious why do you like the width?
Do you need it for clearance?
Can I see the board.
I have been enjoying narrower set ups for Street
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Actually think they are a little wider than I need - if you have a recommendation for narrower hangers you like that have accessible belt motor mounts available & fit Caliber baseplates as well Iâm interested.
I guess ideally Dualitys are the way to go ideally, eventually.
Iâll try to get some pics and an overall thread for my various builds together sometime.
I actually did pick up some Newbee 3links recently too - has anyone commuted on 3 links? They seem like they might be complex for that.
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Weird. If they arenât intended or designed for street use, whatâs the intended use?
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This is my manual balancing device..
It is a LM2596 based voltage bucker / step down converter, attached to a 4 decimal voltmeter.
I use a 3s battery to feed the converter 11.1-12.6v and output 4.1932v, in this instance.
I have two outputs from the LM2596 bucker, one is a JST PH with 2.54mm between the pins, and a JST- Xh with has 2.0mm spacing.
Most BMS balancing plugs are 2.0mm spacing.
I will insert the JST connectorâs 2 pins into the corresponding balance connector receptacles of low P group(s)
This is a pretty slow process as there is not much pressure difference between say 4.12 and 4.19v, and the closer that 4.12 P group gets to 4.19v, the less voltage difference so less amperage flows.
I have a clampmeter which can only read as low as 0.05 amps, and it will usually read more than this initially when I first start manually balancing, but then later, after a period of time, it will read 0.00 when, there is still amperage flowing.
When it reads 0.0 amps, I will then remove the connector from balance plug and check the low P groupâs voltage. If it is still too low, return the connector, or keep it off and move to another potential low P group.
I Aim for no more than 0.030 volts difference between P groups, but I donât get bent out of shape if it is 0.035 volts / 35mV
If I am impatient, I will raise the step down converterâs output voltage as high as 4.25v for more voltage Delta and thus more amperage flow, but if not pulling it off in time, that low P group might then become the highest P group.
So there is some vigilance required in this manual balancing process when âinjectingâ 4.20v into a low Pgroup.
Set a timer on your phone rather than thinking you will remember.
If I had to rebuild this manual balancing device. I would use a XL4015 based voltage bucker/ step down converter onto this same 4 decimal voltmeter.
There are versions of this bucker, usually with a red PCB, that have both a voltage adjustment potentiometer AND a current limiting potentiometer.
This 5 amp red XL4015 based bucker/ step down converter( shown in Pic below with a copper heatsink on top of the XL4015 chip) would be beneficial when one P group is very low and can then accept more than 3 amps from the 3 amp limited LM2596 bucker.
Do NOT try and adjust output voltage with the JST connector hooked to the low P group. Adjust it to the desired output when unloaded, unhooked to any battery, then hook it to the proper 2 receptacles of the balance connector.
Do pay careful attention to polarity, and an inline fuse on output is a wise precaution.
If probing the balance connector for voltage with a digital multimeter, be extra super careful so the probes cannot touch each other.
I have 2 âcapacity controllersâ which display individual P group voltages for upto a 7S battery for a connector with the larger 2.54mm spacing. This is safer than trying to probe the balance connector.
I made a 2.0 to 2.54mm adapter to easily plug my 10s batteryâs bms balance connector into 2 of these displays.
There is a more expensive 8 cell blue version of these displays which claim to have passive balancing ability.
I cannot confirm that ability.
Everything battery has the potential to go all sparky melty and smoky and worse, if not respected.
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I havenât seen them cracking but I donât like their ride feel. I canât get anywhere near enough lean or turn out of them, even with all the mods I tried to get them to feel decent, screw stability. Iâve given up on trying to make them ride ok.
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Hey @HippyDeathCult , took me minute to get some pics.
I do have an RC 6s charger, but I have to go up to the shop, gather 5lbs of power supply, charger wires, etc.
Lately I have been using the little dirt cheap TP4056 lithium charging modules, like ~$1 apiece in quantity, they seem to regulate to 4.2v fairly well, altho I usually just keep an eye on the nominal voltage I am trying to balance to.
Depending on the battery, I either use the alligator clips directly on the P-group tabs, or plug jumper wires into the balance harness.
You could even solder pins to the module at the right spacing, and plug directly into the balance harness.
I put a couple heatsinks on the alligator clip one, just to help dissipate some of the heat trapped by the heatshrink tubing.
Here is a before and after pic of a 13s4p ~300wh battery I balanced manually over the course of about 3 hrs:
After:
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He mentioned they were intended for air tires, instead of thane.
Iâm wondering if they ran into issues with the Defiant boards that were using BN270s with the street gear drives and had to stop advertising them for street/thane.
sanity check.. 4wd over can. Hotswapping lipos with as150âs. As long as -ve is connected first all good or am I missing something.
Hotswapping, as-in you are swapping the batteries while youâre riding? ?
Between races.
Hot swapping generally means replacing, adding, or removing a component or device while the system is powered on and running / fully operational.
Theyâre still hot when you swap them
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