Mountainboards have been doing it forever, it’s an excellent way to get more cells in 
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yup, I was thinking more for even standard longboards. We see that a lot of top-end pre-built boards are straying further away from the skateboard/longboard look in favour of huge batteries and features. ESC boxes (especially ones looking like the Lorentz Major V3’s one) wouldn’t look too out of place at this point.
I’ll probably consider doing the same when it’s time to upgrade my board.
I took this video to see what’s happening more clearly. It takes 1.55 seconds after throttle is maxed for current to reach 100%. It’s not just from the wheels starting to break traction but VESC tool shows ramping over 1.55 seconds.
That’s after turning pos ramping down from 0.4 to 0.25.
I will edit with info after trying 0.1 (scroll down) but do I need to do something specific with negative ramping like keeping it under pos ramping?
No, I keep them both very low and just adjust throttle curve to my preference.
I messed with this a lot trying to mimic Loaded’s endless push mode on Vesc. The idea is that you kick push up to X speed and the esc holds the motors at that speed with a slow decay on amps (like motor assisted freeroll) until you push again. Turning up the ramping times made it feel like my throttle was sticky and non responsive.
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Is your remote calibrated properly?
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I did a calibration thing in the remote, and tried the options in VESC “setup input” but nothing showed up when I moved the throttle.
Since when I don’t touch it it stops, and when I full throttle it reaches >98% motor amps I don’t think calibration is related since it looks like it only does position not speed.
screen record and irl of time it takes to reach max current (tried changing ramp time to 0.1)
Changed to 140A per I think it shows max current best
What remote is that?
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VX2
Am open to buying a Maytech or gbremote
If you open the desktop VESC Tool on a computer and look directly at the inputs coming from the remote, not motor currents, are they realtime?
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I’ve got a Maytech I’d sell ya for cheapie
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Yeah that looks weird. It looks like the motor having trouble starting up and then just spike to 100% right away.
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Fantastic question, it takes a long time to open up and I have exams so I might take 2-3 days to check.
I also notice it if I accelerate hard from a rolling start, and I think when it’s an issue like faulty sensors it shakes and spikes around / up to target current rather than smooth ramp up.
How does it react when ur riding on it? Usually if it’s a sensor issue it would hiccup weirdly on start up. This I feel like it’s something different. If nothing else just redo everything, detection, remote calibration, etc.
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While riding it’s like I push on the throttle and it only starts accelerating hard a second later. Not noticeable at low power, I was maxing throttle when I wanted say 70% and then lowering throttle as soon as it picked up, to try account for the lag.
I used it without sensors temporarily so I’m familiar with the shaky start and doing a little shuffle to get started, but now it works smoothly just takes a bit longer to get to high power.
I’ll redo motor detection and setup inputs and see if I can get calibration to see the remote signal.
You need to check the remote signal before doing anything else. To know if the problem is in the remote or in the ESC/motors.
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I just switched to new tires, but I screwed up, the wheels are directional, so the treads on back are not arrow forward. I dont ride dirt, I dont ride wet. It is the back ones that are reversed. Is there really any drawback to this? Treads are flattish too.
Tread direction doesn’t rl matter if you only ride on dry roads if you used generic street tires.
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Finally found some time and then I found out of 6 usb c cables none were a data cable, but finally I’m able to connect again.
@b264 you were on to something.
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Wow, either that remote is set up wrong, or it belongs in a trash can. That’s ridiculous. Does it have PWM output instead of UART? Can you try that? Unlikely to be a solution. Is there a ramping or damping or other setting in the remote that can be disabled?
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Try setting positive ramp time to 0.1 and see if that makes a difference.
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