this chart is what most of us are using for general amperage capacity. Green is continuous red is burst generally with allowances for airflow. All the copper wire on the chart is assumed to be silicone 200°c super fine flexible conductor.
You should be good for 5a safely as long as the cable doesn’t route through anything as a tight bundle and is isolated with fish paper from the cells you could do comfortably.
I like to oversize my charging connections because i also like to charge at high rates. 50.5v x 5a = 252w of charging isn’t nothing but it should be fine. If you’re overly concerned you should open the enclosure and charge then feel around on the cable and your connections for anything that gets hot. That’s what i did the first time i changed at 3000w. Hot isn’t necessarily bad as long as it’s not too hot or in the wrong places.
Also keep in mind the cell’s rated maximum charge rate is not realistic or achievable, specs max charge rate is a single cell in free air with close monitoring of the cell temperature. Ive been able to get to 50% of that reliably in a tight enclosure but have to make allowances for my temperature rise and monitoring closely. (Fyi my bms was the bottleneck not the cells )
I accepted 5.5x2.1 but then adopted 5.5x2.5. The metal bodied ones rated at 10 amps.
I did have one develop slop., enough that torquing it hard to the side could blow my charge port fuse.
I think that was more vibration related than high charge rate heating.
I have pushed my latest 5.5x2.5 to 9 amps and it stayed cooler than expected, but I have 16awg on both sides of connection wicking away heat.
I used glue lined heat shrink up the silicone wires, and some gorilla grip clear to pot the heatshrink to vonnector end, as stress relief.
Heatshrink helps the clear GG stick. There is likely better products for this, but it has proven solid for 2K miles.
I eliminated my power button and filled the hole with another 10 amp 5.5x2.1, but it is not wired up. I thought of using both in parallel to charge, but It stays cool enough on one, that i have not bothered.
Monitor it for heating, and have a charge port fuse.
Monitor it when your battery is low, so the charger is outputting its maximum amperage rate for a good amount of time.
I have some precision cotton swabs that can fit inside the barrel on plug and on both sides of the pin on the receptacle. I put a little Caig Deoxit d5 onto a swab every so often, and scrub the interior leaf spring contact on the side, and the Pin, and the swab always comes out grey.
Hey, I made some circuits to control my accessory lights and want to upgrade it.
Right now I have a 60v→12v stepdown converter (power source) where the GND connects to a protoboard I have with 12 n channel MOSFETs. The +ve of the power source is split to different lights (loads). Each MOSFET connects to the GND on each load and has a digital output pin from my Arduino on the gate, making it a voltage gated low side switch.
This has worked for everything but I want to now add a second stepdown converter to power 24v accessories. GPT says I should use high side PROFETs like https://www.infineon.com/part/BTH50015-1LUA because it’s better for things like my music amp if it’s always grounded. I’d like to put this all into a custom PCB but I know nothing about making one yet…
Is the best way to have both 12v and 24v switches on one PCB controlled by my Arduino?
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