Gathering Storm | Trampa HolyPro | Dual 64110 | 10S5P | VESC 6 | Hypertrucks + Falcon | Submersible

And let there be light

Took more than time than I would like to admit but it think it turned out pretty nice
I’m running all leds in séries at 700 mA, around 12 W total and 1000 lumens if the datasheet is to be true

I may have a heat problem and need to do a V2, it’s gets pretty warm, the idea was to use the base plate as a heat sink, I have thermal compound between every surface, but the curved section is thin
Also elf eyes will note that I have 3 different color temperatures, warm, neutral and cool, it’s what I had on hand, and unfortunately 3 of the 5 lens cracked when I was screwing it closed

Now I need to make a housing to cover both DC-DC converters, one to step down the battery voltage to the maximum of the CC/CV one of 35 V, maybe see if I can house them bellow the deck

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First night ride with the light, turns out it’s nowhere near enough, I need something like 4 times the brightness, time to hunt some more powerful LEDs

I think these DC-DC converter will handle, right now at 700 mA they are cold to the touch, the light itself not so much, can’t keep my finger on the back aluminum for more than a few seconds

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I’m looking for non-shitty way to secure one or more external batteries, I would love to just use magnets, but unfortunately 304 isn’t magnetic to clip it directly to the top of the battery case

First step was to have and idea of the force we expect on it, looks like the acceleration on a hard jump is around 1g, so considering 3g as a safe number should be good

I have two 10S3P that I would like to make them module to use with this and other e-things, with a case and everything 3.5 kg should be a good bet, so we are looking at around 100 N of vertical force needed to keep everything in place

I have a bunch of round 5x5 mm N52 magnets, magnet to magnet considering a non ideal situation of a 1 mm gap we have 5 N for each pair

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Long overdue update

New light is working great, bearings got brand new bearings and finally I cut the shaft and placed the mount closer to the wheel

One thing that is bad is that one motor is making a really bad noise at certain rpm, I thought it was the bearings, but it isn’t, only thing I can imagine is that the magnets are slightly loose and vibrating again the can, what do you guys think? Shame I didn’t test before glueing the pulley in place, see the video below


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Took the courage to disassemble everything again, I hadn’t realized it is the motor I had already fixed, half of the magnets were loose and the other half was removed without too much effort

I thought the glue would hold, but obviously it didn’t, it was a rubberized super glue that is good up to 110°C, but I guess it cracked

Now I will use a two part epoxy and first glue them back and battle harden with a second layer, and to do thing right I’ve taken apart the hole can so everything can be sanded clean

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Looks like this epoxy will hold, but it cures way too fast, managed to put only 3 magnets before it harder, will have to do in steps, and wasted a ton of it

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Such a mess, lot of sanding will be needed, not doing that again

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What a difference the new bearings made, I think I never had a board this silent, the motors were already used when I installed here

I don’t know if I did anything else but you can barely hear the belts also, so the tension is spot on, you easily hear the tires sound on the street

And accelerating from a dead stop has the cool spaceship sound I had forgot existed

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That’s a massive amount of epoxy :sweat_smile:
How did the sanding down work out?

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With a sore hand lol

First I tried mounting it to a drill press, but even that would take a long time to sand

In the end I used a really coarse round wood file to take all major bumps, testing a bunch of times

Also I had to mill a bit of the motor mount, the circlip was hitting it and making noise

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With summer on the way, rain should start being frequent soon, or so I hope, after more than 3 months of not a drop.

This means that finishing the waterproof is a must, only the lights and the battery enclosure remained. I sprayed conformal coat on the LEDs, the driver board had already been sprayed a bunch of times, and after that seal the edges with silicone, same with the battery pack

@b264 do you ever applied grease to connectors? While I don’t see much problem with the phase wires getting wet, the sensor ones may misbehave

In a future board I plan to use this waterproof version of the GX12

https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/32850103487.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.50345e82te7hGN&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.169870.0&scm_id=1007.13339.169870.0&scm-url=1007.13339.169870.0&pvid=a386ece0-ffdd-4bfc-aec5-9f815fbb9099&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller,scm-url:1007.13339.169870.0,pvid:a386ece0-ffdd-4bfc-aec5-9f815fbb9099,tpp_buckets:668%230%23131923%2351_668%23808%233772%23928_668%23888%233325%234_668%232846%238109%23267_668%232717%237567%23949_668%231000022185%231000066058%230_668%233468%2315615%23650

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No. As you said though, phase and power wires are pretty resilient. Sensor and data/signal wires are very, very susceptible to moisture problems. I eliminate the sensor wires entirely. You might try something on the connectors, though not sure what.

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From the reading I did silicone grease is the thing used. I remember seeing a video from Zero Motorcycles where they generously spread grease on the BMS cell connector before plugging it

Hi everyone, long time no see, forgive me a bit of rambling before getting into the good stuff, but let’s go

I find it funny how things change with time, until a while ago, for the past years I wouldn’t miss a day getting into here or in the other place we don’t talk about, until suddenly I wasn’t getting here anymore, I think until recently it was at least a two or three months without coming here to check it out. I don’t even know exactly why, but a few factors.

COVID hit, absolutely shit show here, still is, is maddening looking at the data and see no matter what is done to try to slow it down it just got worse and worse and worse because there is no respect and a bunch of idiots everywhere, so my riding got severely limited, specially since I didn’t went anywhere at this time, I can count on the hands the times in those 1 year and a few months I went anywhere apart from alone or with one or two friends outdoors, luckily things appear to be improving, way too late, but hey, at least I’m getting my first shot tomorrow, still things sucks and motivation for anything is at an all time low

Another factor was the dumbass here forgetting this board on for three or four days, battery completely dead and unrecoverable, to make it worse, was right in the weekend I received this awesome gift from the one and only @DerelictRobot , so thanks again my dude :smiley:, it was right when I was tearing the board apart to install it that I saw the loopkey plugged and my heart sank

While I still have my awesome hummie low rider, the places to ride a street board are severely limited around here, and to be honest I’ve rode all of them so much that I know where each and every crack is and that being so I rarely take it out

Also right when I killed my battery was when I got this DC-DC booster so I could plug my 6S ebike battery to explore even further

So after all of that my riding has been at zero for quite a while

What I did do in to “finish” my ebike, didn’t rode it too much since it’s winter here and a bit cold most of the days, but worse really well and can climb anything you can throw at it, I should make some videos of it

But now to the good stuff, while getting cells here is almost impossible at the moment, I finally found a guy with genuine VTC6 and that wasn’t too expensive, still not cheap, for comparison the same size pack I did one or two years ago was 67 % of the price of what I paid on these

To build this new one I’m using CA glue, @PXSS showed one a long time ago and I always wanted to try, specially since it’s easy and quick. Using some 3D printed spacers also helps since there is no need to deal with fish paper. Also 3D printed some jigs so the cells are perfectly aligned

I plan to finish building the brick tomorrow or Friday and spot welding it on the weekend

So this is the state of my board right now, quite a mess since I haven’t really done anything in my bench for a while, but there are some clues for what’s to come for those with sharp eyes

Looking forward to seeing what you guys have come up on this time I’ve been away

Cheers everyone

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I’ve missed you dude! Glad to hear things are still progressing, even through the lows. Stay strong and glad to see your username again :call_me_hand:

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Thanks man, I hope being here where all the cool kids hang again helps even more

Battery pack glued in, I think I will never build a pack that isn’t glued with superglue, super easy and quick

The 3D printer spacers worked really well, and using the dead pack as a weight just so it doesn’t fell useless, would be awesome to have both working for crazy range

The solo fish paper ring is so I don’t forget to add them before welding all up



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So, using varnish as a wire channel filler wasn’t a good idea, it never hardens and now it’s a mess to take it out

Do a crappy job, do it twice :upside_down_face:


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The thicker wires should give a clue where this is going, they would be overkill for just a front light I think

Now the big question, do I fill the slot? The only thing I have on hands is clear silicone, it’s either that or leave as it is, the wires are glued in place already. Clear resin would look sick, but too much work and almost impossible to get the deck completely flat, so I would need to build some wall and do a lot of sanding later, so that is out

What do you guys think? My only fear is that it will look bad with the silicone and dirt will get stuck to it

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Forgot the picture

Also I’ve been murdering a robogochi to make it fit on the 7 mm I have available, GPS goes on top


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Some slow progress

But what pissed me a bit is that when I went to check the new cell voltages is that a bunch are at a 3.85 V or 3.6 V and a few with some other random values, lowest being 3.46 V

Neither value is bad but it’s weird for factory new cells have that variation on the same model and supposedly, same lot, waiting to hear back from the seller if they individually test each cells and that might screwed up the voltages. But since I didn’t check before I have cells with way too different voltage in the same P group, will have to bring all to the same voltage before welding

Here some progress with the Robogochi





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