$20/pair for the clamp bits too?
Or just the main mount plates?
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For all, I’m just finishing the VESC enclosure to send all to a quote, if people are interested I could offer them, but shipping costs from here sucks
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I’m thinking in changing to name to Cyberboard since all will end up being 304 stainless steel like Cybertruck, if I have patience I will polish everything to a mirror finish to match the baseplates
I really wanted to make the case as compact as possible, if I disassemble the GT2B receiver I can shave a significant portion
Also I’m at a cross roads in what to do with the screw, currently the bottom plate is 3.18 mm and the top one 2.25 mm, but with a internal height 22 mm there is no screw length that fits perfectly
If its used 3.18 on the bottom and 1.5 mm on top a 25 mm will be perfect, leaving a bit of room for silicone to seal everything up
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VESC box finished with connector and mounting holes
The initial plan was to use an off the shelf plastic box, but the only ones that the 10S5P fits are way over sized, so I guess I will do a custom one, just another two stainless sheets and a few hours of printing, screw might be a problem since long ones are hard to find locally
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Looks dope!
In case you plan to use bindings one day it could be a bit less space on the xt90 output.
Maybe.
Maybe just do two 10awg wires coming out of your box. Like that you could bend them 90degree directly after they come out of the case.
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Thanks Andy, I’m using the binging holes on the deck as a reference, but will double check if everything clears, it’s a XT60, so should have enough space I guess
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The bulk of the battery enclosure is done, the pocket is where the FlexiBMS will go, together with dual XT60 for the front and rear motors, plus a 6 pin GX12 that for now will handle CAN communication, but I have other things in mind for it in the future, also added one to the VESC enclosure, and just now I realized I completely forgot to take the loopkey in consideration
The additional plates at the bottom will allows it to be quickly removed without worrying about breaking the seal for water
Also ends the mystery of the future drive train
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I think I like the battery more in this orientation, and also makes more sense with the connectors layout
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One detail I forgot to mention is that I switched from using thought screw and threads on the steel to brass inserts for two reasons:
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Easy of assemble: Since silicone will be everywhere water could get in, it would be a major pain to assemble both sides of the enclosures at the same time
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Durability: For the battery case there isn’t a screw long enough, so threads in the plastic would be needed, but on the 3D printed case for my ebike I opened it two times and the threads are ruined
This channel really good experiments for anything 3D printer, I have both the cheap and expensive inserts on the way, unfortunately the latter is only available from overseas, so it will take a while to arrive, if by the the time I have everything ready they are not here, the cheap ones will do
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On its feet
The flex is quite good for my weight, one thing I’m afraid is that the elastomers bushings are too hard, I can barely turn the board when standing on top of it, maybe at speed if works, and apparently it’s not possible to use the inner position since the nut is in the way
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I don’t get that.
Can’t you just use the upper holes to mount the base plate?
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Will take some pictures latter
Maybe I can put it in place and fasten to the deck after
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I mean I get it with the nut, but if you use this holes for the base plate it shouldn’t be an issue to mount the barrels in inner position, no?
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I never tested them without bindings. Possible that they work best with bindings 
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This holes were for a light that Alan was using I think, there isn’t an additional set of holes for mounting the baseplate
Just need to drill the inner position at the rear
But just at the front is already way better
But it fits
@Benjo let’s hope not, I really wanted to try first without bindings
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So abs @100% infill?
Looks great 
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Yep, I just don’t have much faith in these inserts, but there will also be silicone holding everything together
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Just waiting on the laser cut plates now
@b264 how do you protect the connectors when conformal coating a PCB? I’m thinking in doing it in everything.
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