Metr pro works on an Apple Watch doesn’t it?
I know it works on Android Wear so it should on the Apple watch thing.
That’s probably the easiest option, but i already have the Davega and i want to make use of it
Getting back in the saddle on this build with 2 months on the clock.
I mounted the major components in the frame with dual lock on bottom, and EVA foam on the other 3 sides
This is the control panel holding a QS8 loopkey for each set of Solos, a charge port, and a parallel port for range extension shenanigans. It’ll get mounted on the left rail with the wires snaking through the frame material to bypass the deck weatherseal, and get its own sealed cover
And here’s a block of HV voltage stepdowns and an arduino/solid state relay so I can power running lights off of Vbat and make the tail lights flash under braking
The remaining challenge is to keep the whole shebang from becoming spaghetti, since I’m almost out of space
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Carbon fiber ground return
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looking awesome. That front area looks like a foot trap if you even need to run off though
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Added benefit, automatic smoke machine. Imagine the 
ambiance (very rock n roll).
Thanks! The front mechanism is as low as I could make it, but yeah it’s a bit of a foot funnel. My previous bikeboard had a milder version of the same problem though, and I’d like to think I have a bit of muscle memory for dealing with it.
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This is the second LLT unit of mine that has been busted out of the box in this fashion. The pack is manually confirmed to be at ~3.49V/group to within 10mV. Has anyone else been getting this?
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Haven’t seen this before, nope. Second BMS for the same battery(?)
My gut says it might be a hardware/wiring issue (not a bms issue) because the battery is the common denominator. But you’ve probably checked that already
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No, the one for my 10s build missed cells 8-10 in the same way this 18s model is missing 1-4. I’m probing at the plug head to confirm that all the electrons are where they’re supposed to be, so the problem has to be downstream of that.
Can these things get messed up by plugging in the balance leads before the main ground? I’ve heard of that for some other brands of BMS.
I always plug in battery ground before balance.
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I had some wonky readings on a JBD (LLT) BMS when I connected to it before the main B- was connected. I didn’t do any damage to mine, but I can’t say for certain that it wouldn’t damage it. Read ok after all was fully connected.
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Wait just a solder-melting minute, how did I convince myself that the NY events were in November? I have 1 month to finish the build, not 2!
Uuuhhhhhhh ok ok i printed a legstick
i printed some cable glands that clamp down on the wires a bit when forced thru a 1/2" hole, packed em with E6000 and sent all the motor wires out the back of the frame
If I did the wiring over I would shell out for a tiny BMS and use bus bars, but I think this is passable. The BMS and balance wires are glued down to the floor and shielded with a PET plastic sheet, and the power wires are managed with a shitload of zip ties so that they run parallel to each other wherever possible instead of crossing over. I’ve tried to keep noisy power stuff from running directly next to logic components.
The arduino controlled part of the lighting block turned out not to work right, and I’m not gonna troubleshoot it. Static lights it is.
And everything powers on, no smoke today 
Getting sensor wires routed in basically doubles the amount of wiring I need to squeeze through this gap between the frame and rear wheel. I’d like to remove it, since I have no need for sensored start, but IDK whether the temp sensor is needed to keep these motors running smooth after they heat up. What are your thoughts @Skyart ?
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Really? Because of the push start nature(?) I’d still suggest sensors just in case? Cogging sucks.
You’d probably be fine without temp sensor, you’d just need to manually be aware of motor temperatures
Is the extra wire(s) really that bulky! Surprising.
You could look into split-wrap wire loop stuff, might help with routing? Comes in a lot of colors. @HAIRYMANJACK convinced me to use it on my stooge V5, and it was absolutely the right call.
The first Amazon result;
https://a.co/d/f7W0NBi
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This is insane on so many levels, wish I could be at carve NYC to see it in person! 
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You could also just use the temp sensor, only one wire but yesh i get the whole headache with that. They should run just fine, what is the gearing on this thing? Trying to figure out your motor RPM at like 30mph to see how bad iron losses may effect you
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Yes, this thing doesn’t need a lot torque 0-5mph since I jump to start it.
It’s actually less that there’s not enough space, and more that the wires in this region need to flex a lot, since the gearbox moves down when the suspension compresses. After I got the connectors soldered up and heatshrinked, most of the flexible length in the sensor wires had been immobilized. I’m not worried about the big silicone phase wires, but I’m worried the sensor wires will just end up fatiguing and be an ongoing headache.
Thanks, I’ll check it out 
So you’re saying FOC can still run smooth without temperature compensation?
It’s 11:1 with a 500mm wheel, should be ~5600RPM at 30mph
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Yeah Foc will still run smooth without temp sensors, atleast in my experiance on a few setups.
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Motor wiring is finished and the beast is aliiiiiiiive
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