Is that cracking due to the depth of the pour or what caused it to happen?
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Yeah the depth. Just using laminating epoxy so it’s not really made for deep pours. As a result it gets too hot, too quickly and bad things happen.
I did expect that something like this might happen. A smarter version of me would have done this in multiple smaller pours, and maybe even added reinforcement.
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This worked well for me. No issues with 2 pours.
Rounding the faces is a good idea. It should also help blending the joint while sanding.
One thing I’ve been doing to promote adhesion at the joint is to key in the walls with a paintbrush before pouring.
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Maybe add some chopped glass to help with the mass and cracking 
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Came here to ask why you didn’t add in any fiberglass before doing my own, but now I know you didn’t have a reason for it. 
I’m working with the same shape but with the front cut out.
I plan to use fiber glass and I’ll be adding in all the cured bits of epoxy that were left over in the mixing cup just to reduce the volume of epoxy needed and to help reduce waste.
Your board looks to be the shame shape at the ends to where you could still use normal bottom mounting. Is there any reason why you wanted to fill it in? I’m doing it because I want the grip tape to be nice and flat but I’m curious if there is a non aesthetic reason to do it.
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Mainly doing it for added strength. Plus there is no need for the drop through so I don’t want it there
I actually had some chopped and ready to put in, and I was considering doing it in 2-3 pours but i’m just lazy/impatient sometimes. Plus I was curious if it would crack.
I did the same thing to a damaged demonseed once. It worked out really well in the end, but I did have some leaky adventures
I am slightly worried about strength for the front but that is just because I want to use my bracket extension in what I’d normally call the wrong direction but it looks better that way. 
Still need to decide what to do with it but the back end I want to fill for sure
The cuts in the area are really clean and at 90 degrees so I have no idea if they were added later on or if the deck was just sold that way.
I’m going to split mine into only two pours, but that is because I’ve done a pour with this same epoxy that was a bit thicker than half the deck’s thickness so I know it won’t crack.
Why did I not consider that until now… I was thinking I just need to put in the fiber glass and pour it in 
I do have a cheap way to make a form/ block it off but I wasn’t even thinking about that when planning out the best way to do it.
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I’ve been neglecting this build, i have been busy getting life shit together. But the shit is togetherish now so it’s time.
Sanded back the overfill on the top of the deck, went reasonably well, perhaps even a little better than expected. Proceeded to sand the rest.
Now typically I would just make an enclosure at this point before doing any more work to the deck, but after following and drooling over @MatteoFPV 's build thread, I’ve decided to shamelessly plagiarise his build.
So the plan is as follows:
- Take a female mold of the surface of the deck
- Cut a big fuckin hole through the deck
- Construct a structural ‘tray’ beneath the deck
- Use the female mold from step 1 to make a lid.
I created a flange around the deck so that my female mold will also have a respectable flange. Bed time now, will glass tomorrow night 
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Sick Dude. Looking forward to this. If you have any questions about my construction, ask me. 
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Cheers dude! I reckon i got a pretty good idea of how i’m gonna do it.
Couldn’t be fucked making a female mold, just going straight for the lid in one shot. I wanna skin it anyway so a little surface sanding is easier than two whole layups.
750gsm triax top and bottom
3 layers of 450gsm CSM in the middle
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Pretty much finalised all the parts this evening
Will be the integrated frankendeck
12s4p p42a
Xenith (lovingly repaired by @jaykup 
)
@Razillian tkps (swoon🥰)
@XTLA surfrodz mounts
Saite 190kv 6374s
@Savage1 40T kegel pulleys
88wheels 86mm McFlys
Puck
New beta gotchipro 
Fucking keeeeeeen
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Cool. I look forward to buying it in April.
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Hold up – the Razilian DKP trucks can just be used as normal TKP trucks as a sufr rodz replacement, but without the bushing seat to hanger bolts that snapped on you last time? That’s awesome! 
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this is clever
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We believe so, but have not tried it yet!
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Cheers dude. I do it to batteries that I think might be under a bit more pressure than most. It’s a pretty quick and easy step tho, i will probably start doing it to all of them.
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Ok so a bit of shit has gone down in the past few weeks and i been a little preoccupied. But everything has simmered down and i’m cracking on.
Crimes have been committed…
At this point I kinda really want to get trucks, wheels and motors mounted so I know where I can chop the deck. Cos i’m going tkp, I think I wanna keep the wheelbase as short as possible and trim down the nose and tail of the deck to suit.
Once I have made the chop, i’ll be able to get on with fibreglassing this puppy up!
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