3 posts were split to a new topic: Kook’s outcast effluent
The Grocery Getter
I’ve looked longingly and a little jelly at the short deck urban assault esk8s like @b264 and the choochoo that @rey8801 and the little tank that @mmaner have built and really wanted to try my hand at a shortboard build… a light-weight, small, maneuverable, fun board…
So I got to thinking, what do I like in a board, split angle trucks for sure something 50-60 degree on the front truck and 35-ish degrees in the tail. The front truck must be right at the very front so wheeling it around holding the rear of the board the front wheels are unencumbered.
It HAS to have a usable kick-tail, and if I can fabricate a handhold in the kick tail to wheelbarrow the little girl around so much the better. I also have become quite fond of an angled rear foot stop that an MTB and a drop-down deck has for fast launches…
I love a medium to deep concave in the foot pockets, and the board should be stiff as f*$k so I don’t need a flexible battery or segmented enclosure.
I got to looking around and bought a cheap 31" long, 8.5" wide popsicle deck to mock up my thoughts and to see if I wanted to pursue this concept before I pressed a deck.
Front-truck mounted MTB style, rear truck moved aft and risers and wedges added, really liking the cool super usable kick!
and she should stand in the corner face down ass up like a good girl!
The wheelbase has been increased from 16 1/2" to 24" but she is still really small!
Mocked up on 97mm 'thane and so far I don’t think wheel bite will be an issue, but my plans are to ride her on 90mm wheels…
I found a super deal on @torqueboards site for an enclosure for bux 10, now if Dex and his customer service would get their shit together and tell me why my tracking number hasn’t moved from their warehouse in DAYs, I could show you that gem… but I digress… I’m really liking the way this is shaping up, and I’m going to kick-push her for a couple of days till the rest of the parts come in, and I finish up the motors…
I just wonder… is 110kv @ 12S2P too high of Kv… (maybe these are the wrong drives for this board… hmmmm… we’ll see…
EDIT: I just received the shipping info from @torqueboards, label created Sunday the 26th, received at shipper Wednesday the 29th… I get my shit Friday… Thanks Skaten…
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This is dope af. Digging the diy spirit . I see you
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No, Michael uses a hybrid if you mean the bustin 
They are different to standard skateboard pop sickle decks…
Sorry I forgot the Santa cruz…my fault me idiot
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I refer to the red star one. I thought is a skate deck.
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Sure it is, too.
Its kinda confusing bc Michael does work on so many projects, thats insane ahhahaha. Sorry dude, i was a bit fast with my reply, was just triggered knowing it better this time hahahahah 
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Man no problem at all:grin: you can write as fast as you want 
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Yes I can but i dont wanna be the fool at all by spreading wrong information, bc im not.
Im a professional 
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Awesome board
Lowering the motor Kv will only help is the ESC is overheating or already at its maximum current, if the motor gets hot, changing the Kv won’t matter
If you have headroom on the ESC just crank up the amps
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It’s slowly coming together, today I received my 12S2P enclosure from TB, less than bux 10 for an enclosure, and comes with mounting hardware!!! 
I push-sk8ed around for about an hour… this thing feels crazy fun! carvy but fun/stable and the back kick is awesome… I really can’t wait to ride wheelies with this little board powered… that reminds me, someone was making a rear skid for the kick somewhere on the site… I wanna make similar from nylon, and embed pieces of titanium, or just a titanium plate so I can make sparks when I ride awesome wheelies when powered…
the rest of this is just basic maintenance and bearing replacement… I found a great deal on some sealed ceramic motor bearings that I’m going to try out…
the process continues… be nice to each other please… except the buttholes… fcuk them!
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I’m really not liking the cracked magnet in one can…
I can get a fingernail in there and feel a ridge at the crack and just know the epoxy holding the magnets has been compromised… any one have source for motor magnets?
Preferably 9ish x 235ish x 2.5ish and curved… But I’ll take what I can get…
or does anyone have a damaged can that still has some usable magnets in it?
Yes these will be battle-hardened once I’m satisfied…
@hummieee ???
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Doubt you’ll find a match. I’ve heard of people gluing in the broken parts more so. Maybe sit the whole rotor in acetone and it likely will weaken the epoxy Snd u could put new square magnets in that u get off the shelf. While ur at it do it hallbach!
Any cheap ceramic bearings I’ve come across have broken. And loud. Maybe if the races are at least steel be ok. I’ve seen them explode.
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Follow on for @hummieee, what if u just epoxy over it? Is it just a performance hit or does this tend to degrade or damage the Esc or stator?
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if I had all the pieces I’d try and jigsaw the magnet back in… but I know the underlying epoxy has been compromised, once I get it out… I’ll re-epoxy a new magnet back in and battle harden the can…
but as it sits the battle-hardening effort will only be a band-aid…
John, do you have source for “off the shelf magnets”?
and @Arzamenable if you have some magnets of similar size to spare I’d love to get my hands on them…
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@Chaka was also stoked on this idea. From the you tube videos I’ve seen, seems complicated to try to cram the various magnets in different orientations in the can with out major mods probably requiring a metal lathe or Cnc.
If not the case, I’d try it for science.
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“ 9ish x 25ish x 2.5ish and curved“. Wow Small. In past did 10x52x3 curved and will go longer than the stator next time which is worth doing.
I’ll bet u can really kick up the performance if u can get all the epoxy out and do again w hallbach. 8x25x2.5. And the sideways magnets at 4x25x2.5. Just square. Will drop the kv way down. Could rewind with fewer turns and fatter wire to bring kv back up n lower resistance
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was encouraged by the guy who made the 3D printed motor…it can be hard to assemble the hallbach but with his ratios of pole to side magnet he said they just snapped in.
Looking at the rotor you could put a dowel in the center and slide all in. How they behave exactly I don’t know and they could fight each other but even then I think if u get them in they will pull to the rotor steel.
I did simulations and a ratio of about 80/20 was best.
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I rechecked the magnets are about 35mm long… corrected above…
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@kook, shit man, I gave a new unused carvon v2 or v3 single motor truck to a Luger at Barrett junction if he promised to show up next year with an eluge
He should be somewhere here lurking.
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